I live in NZ so I would rather not have to do two shipments so testing by ear I would rather leave as a last resort
setting windows volume to -10.5dB (50%) the volume
...the PC-151's are 118dB/V......and the Q701's are 105dB/V ...
Are you sure that's -10.5dB? (When I adjust Windows volume I don't see a dB reading...)
How loud do you normally listen? With your current headphones, do you have the volume at or near the maximum? Or when you crank it up to maximum, is it "way to loud" or "just a little too loud?"
if you right click on the percentage meter, you get an option to change to dB.[image]
QuoteHow loud do you normally listen? With your current headphones, do you have the volume at or near the maximum? Or when you crank it up to maximum, is it "way to loud" or "just a little too loud?"Along the lines of "a little too loud" sometimes I'll max them out but can't stand it for longer than a hour or so (this is with replay gain though).I usually throttle back the volume on the headset by about maybe 90% via the inline adjustment for most things.
The other thing is I'm somewhat intrigued by wiring up my own Headphone Amp I haven't done electronics since High-school so I will be extremely rusty and have no equipment.
Quote from: YellowOnion on 10 June, 2012, 09:56:50 AMif you right click on the percentage meter, you get an option to change to dB.[image]Cool, I didn't know this existed. You live and learn.
I'd expect things to become noticeably more bassy.
Now that sounds like fun. Unfortunately, these AKGs are in the slightly more demanding camp. You'd probably get passable results with a 4556-based cMoy (split voltage supply preferred), though I would prefer a buffered concept (à la Apheared-47, but again using the 4556).In terms of finished products, you'd have to be looking at a FiiO E9 (mains-powered) or E11 (portable) minimum. While not terribly expensive for what they do, they still cost a good bit more than a plain cMoy or similar DIY amp in an Altoids tin.
The 701s are a 62 ohm impedance can and AKG states a maximum input of 200 mw. By experience, I'd say that is continuous. They do need to be given some power to sound like they're are capable of. Trying to power them off a sound card will usually sound dull with terrible bass response. Find yourself a .5 watt amp to handle the peaks and you will find a very good headphone. Not as bass heavy as others but the soundstage is special and if your source isn't bright, I think they are pretty darned good.
InnerFidelity measurements of various specimen are showing around 300 mVrms for 90 dB SPL at 1 kHz, at impedances of 60..65 ohms. So they need levels comparable to 250 ohm Beyers or higher than 300 ohm Sennheisers, but are obviously a good deal more power-hungry and more of a load on the output stage. Much like ye olde HD570 back in the day (which had a heavy "bathtub type" response and accordingly lost sensitivity in the mids).An O2 is another amp that should be fine for them.
QuoteRealtek chipsHow much different would the Xonar be? I haven't found much information on it, and I don't usually use my Realtek unless I'm on voice chat and use it as a separate out.
A resaonable person would obtain the headphones, plug them into the best of what they have, and see what they think.
If that doesn't do it for them, then they should spend the chump change on a Boosteroo or a Fiio E5.
Oops, looks like there's a question I missed earlier...Quote from: YellowOnion on 10 June, 2012, 06:43:52 PMQuoteRealtek chipsHow much different would the Xonar be? I haven't found much information on it, and I don't usually use my Realtek unless I'm on voice chat and use it as a separate out.Good question. People have indeed complained about low headphone volume on the DS, and if this thread is any indication, this may be related to substantial output impedance. I'd be tempted to poke around on such a card with a multimeter...I was mistakenly assuming you were using the onboard sound earlier. How does that one compare to the Xonar in terms of volume?Quote from: Arnold B. Krueger on 12 June, 2012, 08:11:03 AMA resaonable person would obtain the headphones, plug them into the best of what they have, and see what they think.*looks up definition of 'reasonable person'*Hmm... Can you eat that?All kidding aside, that can be a little risky these days. What if the best is an iPod Classic, Euro firmware (barely sufficient for 90 dB at 0 dBFS)?
But speaking of listening, doing that before buying is, in general, highly recommended. K701s definitely are not everyone's cup of tea, being on the lighter side of things (and I can't really imagine that a PC151 would also be, so they might come as a bit of a shock). I don't know what the options are down in NZ though.
Now there's a blast from the past - I haven't seen a Boostaroo mentioned for many a year. What's inside of them these days? Back in the day when Dan "Dan's Data" Rutter reviewed one, he found a bunch of TDA7050s. (The datasheet of which does a pretty good job at hiding their performance characteristics, except for noise which seems to be enough to be on the threshold of audibility with K701s.)
The E5 seems to be running out in favor of the E6. Which, overall, is the better choice performance wise (review), but it sure is a bit of a pity that the nice metal case had to go. 8 dB of gain is decent, and it should manage about 1.5 V into K701s. It's not too practical for stationary use, but that's common to most any kind of battery-operated device.