Friend, if you can solve your problem with a couple of resistors don't spend the $70.Woody
I don't quite understand. I was under the impression that adding the attenuators increased the source impidence and not the load impidence. Does it depend on the attenuator topology? I was considering a pi network.
INPUT --- R1 --- OUTPUT --- R2 --- GND
I'm going to assume those numbers are SMD resistor codes because they don't make sense any other way.
Friend, if you can solve your problem with a couple of resistors don't spend the $70.
Parts Express has these attenuators[/u][/url] in 1, 3, and 6dB for about $5 USD each., or these in 3, 6, and 12dB, sold in pairs for $26 USD.I have some of the cheaper ones, and one bad thing is that they are not marked with the attenuation.
These are of poor design. The ground connection is not carried directly through and that can cause hum and static if the two pieces of equipment are not well grounded to each other by other means. I have done audio engineering for many years. I bought 4 of these and then put them in the trash after testing. The internal attenuators are of "balanced" design but are installed in these unbalanced units, this can cause the mentioned problems.
I should have listened to the one other review -- I bought two of these and one was dead on arrival. Take your business elsewhere, this part is worthless.
That sounds like the pots have one or more taps, which is commonly used to achieve non-linear gain with rotation. Given your description of the imbalance at low volumes, I suspect there is either a bad component or a bad connection related to this function. Without a schematic I am only guessing, but if you can find and fix this problem then you probably won't need the attenuator.By any chance does your amplifier have what is known as a "loudness switch"?
I don't quite understand. I was under the impression that adding the attenuators increased the source impidence and not the load impidence. Does it depend on the attenuator topology? I was considering a pi network.Anyway, to throw some numbers out there. I pulled the gangs out of the back of my receiver and sent a 440Hz test tone through it and then proceeded to jam the probes of my multimeter into the pre-out jacks. At full blast the meter reads 4.7V, at three-oh-clock it shows 3.3V, at noon it shows 1.0V, at nine-oh-clock it shows 0.4V and at halway between that and zero it shows 0.3V. Right now I'm operating it somewhere between null and "nine-oh-clock" but I'd really like to be operating it at MINIMUM nine-oh-clock because halfway below that starts to get noticable channel skew. So, you're right about 15-20dB being too high. How about -12dB? That's roughly a 4:1 ratio. It would bring the dial at 50% down to what used to be the mid of my listening range with a hot source while still giving me the headroom for turn even the most feeble sources up to respectable volumes?PS: My receiver is fully solid state. Also, I'm going to assume those numbers are SMD resistor codes because they don't make sense any other way.
Are the channels balanced at low volume with/without the loudness switch on? If one position keeps them balanced and the other does not then we may be able to determine the problem.
Well, the simplest fix would be if one switch contact is dirty and not making a connection. Start by switching it on and off many times, then see if the problem is fixed. If not then get yourself a can of contact cleaner and spray that into the switch, again working the switch on and off.If that still doesn't do it then we are looking at either a bad solder connection, a bad switch, a bad component (rare), or an incorrect component value (even rarer).Something that is often used to look for bad connections or components is to squirt freeze spray in various places to see if that makes a difference.Edit: By the way, it is the channel that is louder than the other that has the problem.