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Topic: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations (Read 24890 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #25
What are your expectations in term of bass rendering ?
I fear I cannot make an accurate statement, as I haven't had the chance to attentively listen to a variety of subwoofers, but from my gut feeling I'd say I would prefer a clearer/more accurate reproduction over an inflated/boomy sound.
Are you seated in the center of the room ?
I am seated slightly off center, though as I said my room arrangement may change after I move.

The disperson of the preferred speaker for a room depends on the degree of reverberation in the room. The usual rule of thumb:

(1) Wide dispersion - room with low reverberation.

(2) Narrow or so-called "Controlled Dispersion" - room with normal or greater reverberation.

Some fairly common speakers (can we say mainstream?) that have controlled dispersion:

Behringer B2030 & B2031

JBL - just about every studio monitor they sell starting with the LSR 305 and working on up.

etc.

I have looked at the Behringer B2030 & B2031 and the JBL LSR 305 and they seem quite appealing to me, but given my small room size they are probably not the way to go(?).

I was expecting to recommand passive monitors because of hissing and humming issues (i've sold my active moniors because of this problem) that was totally utterly annoying for me.
Entry level monitors woofers are very, very often boomy and one note sounding.
I'd definitely want to avoid hissing or humming, especially since a lot of speakers seem to have their controls on the back, meaning I cannot easily switch them off.
FWIW, my LSR308s are turned on 24/7 as they are very quiet and use very little power when not playing music.
This gives me some confidence however (leaving the speakers on 24/7 would be most convenient).

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #26
I am seated slightly off center, though as I said my room arrangement may change after I move.

Great ! the room resonnaces are often occur under 150Hz and exhibit huge spikes and deeps in the frequency response (ringings).
All there resonances are canceled in the center of the room, so you will be less impacted.
The bass rendering in a small room is a big challenge because there is no electronic solutions to cure mecanical issues.
You should perhaps buy proximity monitors and buy a sub after you move.

I have looked at the Behringer B2030 & B2031 and the JBL LSR 305 and they seem quite appealing to me, but given my small room size they are probably not the way to go(?).

These are very, very classical bass reflex tuning... you can expect the legendary BOOOOMMMM at 50Hz ;)

I'd definitely want to avoid hissing or humming, especially since a lot of speakers seem to have their controls on the back, meaning I cannot easily switch them off.

Passive monitors are a better bet for hissing issues and less expensive to repair thanks to the separate amp.

This gives me some confidence however (leaving the speakers on 24/7 would be most convenient).

Class D small amplifiers are very cheap, have a very low quiescent current consumption and sound perfectly to my ears.

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #27
I am seated slightly off center, though as I said my room arrangement may change after I move.

Great ! the room resonances are often occur under 150Hz and exhibit huge spikes and deeps in the frequency response (ringings).

Short Wikipeida article introducing some basic concepts of room acoustics

Linkswtiz on room acoustics and the Schroder frequency

Every room has a Schroder frequency, or the cross-over frequency which differentiates the low frequencies that create standing waves within small rooms from the mid and high frequencies which add up statistically and tend towards flatter response.

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All there resonances are canceled in the center of the room, so you will be less impacted.

There tends to be cancellation in the middle of the room due to the uniform distances from the side walls, but it often causes a big null that leads to very weak bass which can obviously have quite a bit of impact. All things considered I like to avoid nulls and bass holes because they are harder to correct as they destroy low frequency energy.

Quote
The bass rendering in a small room is a big challenge because there is no electronic solutions to cure mechanical issues.

Of all the kinds of sound quality faults that one can have in a room, the ones at low frequencies can be the most highly amenable to correction via equalization. 

Not mentioned was the fact that on the average room response increases at low frequencies. The smaller the room, the higher the frequency at which this rising response commences.  If untamed, it can make the room seem boomy. This situation is generally addressable via modern electronic equalization.

Quote
You should perhaps buy proximity monitors and buy a sub after you move.

The equipment I mentioned is all suitable for use as near field monitors (the proper English term).

I have looked at the Behringer B2030 & B2031 and the JBL LSR 305 and they seem quite appealing to me, but given my small room size they are probably not the way to go(?).

The smaller models with ca. 5" woofers may be preferable in small rooms.  The larger ca. 8-9" models can obviate the need for separate subwoofers.

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These are very, very classical bass reflex tuning... you can expect the legendary BOOOOMMMM at 50Hz ;)

Absolutely false. All of the equipment I recommended have modern vented box woofers which are not the classical ad hoc tunings that gave vented boxes bad names.

I'd definitely want to avoid hissing or humming, especially since a lot of speakers seem to have their controls on the back, meaning I cannot easily switch them off.

Passive monitors are a better bet for hissing issues and less expensive to repair thanks to the separate amp.

An amplifier is an amplifer whether its in the speaker box or in a separate box. This has already been documented by the examples of the Linkwitz lab power amps as compared to the B2031 and B2032 that use the same power amplifier chips.

Please see: https://hydrogenaud.io/index.php/topic,112933.msg931231.html#msg931231 and following posts.

For some inexperienced audiophiles an active speaker may be their first experience with having to adjust Gain Staging, which is a situation that can arise when you have two cascaded volume controls in an audio system. If a PC is your sound source, this problem is already on your plate whether your speakers are active or passive.

As far as equalization goes, if your music source is a PC don't overlook the APO equalizer that is built into recent releases of Windows in conjunction with the very flexible Peace APO equalizer control/setup software.

Peace APO User Interface

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #28

Thanks for the clarifications, but expect a good bass rendering from a 5' woofer and correct rooms modes with equalisation seems highly controversial  ;)
Low mechanical to the air impedance coupling is critical for the bass rendering and ringings will ring whatever you do to with your equalizers, because of the physics.

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #29



Thanks for the clarifications, but expect a good bass rendering from a 5' woofer and correct rooms modes with equalisation seems highly controversial  ;)

As long as the goal is something as poorly defined as "Good bass?" the answer is yes, no, and maybe.

Similarly, I've seen alleged subwoofers that were e?, 4", 5", and 6 1/2 inches. The 8 inch woofer in a LSR305 will usually demolish any of them.

Quote
Low mechanical to the air impedance coupling is critical for the bass rendering and ringings will ring whatever you do to with your equalizers, because of the physics.

Whatever that means.  Looks like you've got the business of making meaningless statements  based on audiophile buzzwords down pat,


Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #30



Thanks for the clarifications, but expect a good bass rendering from a 5' woofer and correct rooms modes with equalisation seems highly controversial  ;)

As long as the goal is something as poorly defined as "Good bass?" the answer is yes, no, and maybe.

I define a good bass rendering as going low enough to render what has been recorded on my tracks and with enough "accuracy" to be able diferentiate the instruments that sound very similar in the 40-100Hz range (sometimes identical)

Similarly, I've seen alleged subwoofers that were e?, 4", 5", and 6 1/2 inches. The 8 inch woofer in a LSR305 will usually demolish any of them.

Quote
Low mechanical to the air impedance coupling is critical for the bass rendering and ringings will ring whatever you do to with your equalizers, because of the physics.

Whatever that means.  Looks like you've got the business of making meaningless statements  based on audiophile buzzwords down pat,



The electrical energy converted by the motor (the coil and magentic field) in mecanical energy, then that mecanical energy is transfered to the membrane and the membrane transferts its mecanical energy to the air.

Then transfer of the mecanical energy of the cone to the air is depending of the surface of the contact with the air and the quantity of air that this surface is able to displace.

The impedance that i was talking about was in the transfer of the mecanical energy to the air... to be simple the more the membrane is large (and able to displace a large volume of air) the more it is difficult to move it... the higher is your impedance in this POV.

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #31

I define a good bass rendering as going low enough to render what has been recorded on my tracks and with enough "accuracy" to be able differentiate the instruments that sound very similar in the 40-100Hz range (sometimes identical)

Perhaps you might want to read the above through a critical-reading seeing-glass.

Totally missing is any guidance about what sort of dynamic range (clean SPLs at what frequencies) are required.

The best I can see is that some kind of clean response down to 40 Hz will satisfy you.  The LSR 308's are the only ones on my list that have adequate dynamic range that low, with the B2032s coming in a close second. it should be possible to avoid the complexity and cost of a subwoofer which would be need to be a good one or two, a good 8: or larger,

40 Hz might be OK for casual listening or soft rock, but common musical instruments have satisfying output down to 32 Hz, and some classical music can be well-served by clean linear response down to 20 Hz or less.

Similarly, I've seen alleged subwoofers that were e?, 4", 5", and 6 1/2 inches. The 8 inch woofer in a LSR305 will usually demolish any of them.

Quote
Low mechanical to the air impedance coupling is critical for the bass rendering and ringings will ring whatever you do to with your equalizers, because of the physics.

Whatever that means.  Looks like you've got the business of making meaningless statements  based on audiophile buzzwords down pat,

A factoid that utterly destroys the above is that modern speakers are about 1% efficient which means that about 99% of the energy that is delivered to their characteristic impedance is lost due to high mechanical losses due to high series mechanical impedances and low parallel impedance's (you didn't distinguish between the two which makes your statement largely irrelevant not to mention self-contradictory).



The electrical energy converted by the motor (the coil and magentic field) in mecanical energy, then that mecanical energy is transfered to the membrane and the membrane transferts its mecanical energy to the air.


Of course - that's just a trite truism.

Quote
Then transfer of the mechanical energy of the cone to the air is depending of the surface of the contact with the air and the quantity of air that this surface is able to displace.

I see why you are so hell bent against vented enclosures, because they don't solely work that way.  In fact modern speakers manage to have good performance even as the size of their surface contact with the air varies over a wide range. This is to say that other issues are far more important.

Quote
The impedance that I was talking about was in the transfer of the mechanical energy to the air...

As I already pointed out there are both parallel and series impedances that are involved. While that is obviously going on in the background, anybody who actually designs working speakers will tell you that their projects run from start to finish with no direct consideration of it.

Quote
to be simple the more the membrane is large (and able to displace a large volume of air) the more it is difficult to move it... the higher is your impedance in this POV.

Ignores the rather obvious fact that air volume displacement is not solely dependent on the size of the membrane, but rather the linear stroke of the membrane is equally important Furthermore air volume displacement is only an issue at the lowest frequencies.  Obviously midranges and tweeters, and even woofers in their higher frequencies work very well without displacing much air.



Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #32
The best I can see is that some kind of clean response down to 40 Hz will satisfy you.  The LSR 308's are the only ones on my list that have adequate dynamic range that low, with the B2032s coming in a close second. it should be possible to avoid the complexity and cost of a subwoofer which would be need to be a good one or two, a good 8: or larger,

40 Hz might be OK for casual listening or soft rock, but common musical instruments have satisfying output down to 32 Hz, and some classical music can be well-served by clean linear response down to 20 Hz or less.

My listening room is 9m², 40Hz is a already an irrealist target  :D

A factoid that utterly destroys the above is that modern speakers are about 1% efficient which means that about 99% of the energy that is delivered to their characteristic impedance is lost due to high mechanical losses due to high series mechanical impedances and low parallel impedance's (you didn't distinguish between the two which makes your statement largely irrelevant not to mention self-contradictory).

I was only pointing an ability to move air, or not.
Depending to the velocity of the sound, this ability should be required, or not.

I see why you are so hell bent against vented enclosures, because they don't solely work that way.  In fact modern speakers manage to have good performance even as the size of their surface contact with the air varies over a wide range. This is to say that other issues are far more important.

I'm not against well designed bass reflex encolsures, i was just pointing that low cost BR speakers are often boomy.

As I already pointed out there are both parallel and series impedances that are involved. While that is obviously going on in the background, anybody who actually designs working speakers will tell you that their projects run from start to finish with no direct consideration of it.

I've made simple explanation for simple guys as me  :D

Ignores the rather obvious fact that air volume displacement is not solely dependent on the size of the membrane, but rather the linear stroke of the membrane is equally important Furthermore air volume displacement is only an issue at the lowest frequencies.  Obviously midranges and tweeters, and even woofers in their higher frequencies work very well without displacing much air.

The shape of the membrane would also have influence, no ?


Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #34
The shape of the membrane would also have influence, no ?

Very little actually.

The emissive surface of a flat membrane is vastly inferior to a deep cone, everyone shoud understand it easly.

I was here to inform the autor of this topic that a small bass reflex monitor as the JBL LSR305 (slogan : hear the truth ::) ) is a small bass reflex loudspeaker wit a very sharp roll off in the bass and is designed to match the "harman listener preference curve" wich is gentle downward slope 10 dB across the spectrum, 1dB/octave.

You can call it warm, dark or boomy if the rolloff is too sharp. thanks for reading  :D

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #35
The shape of the membrane would also have influence, no ?

Very little actually.

The emissive surface of a flat membrane is vastly inferior to a deep cone, everyone should understand it easly.

I doubt that hardly anybody who understands the designs of speaker diaphragms understands this because it is a myth.  In general it is agreed upon and stated in many acoustics texts that if radiation were the only goal, an ideal speaker diaphragm would usually be flat and piston-like. Exceptions exist particularly when the shape of the diaphragm has significant desirable effects on the radiation pattern, such as a dome.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diaphragm_(acoustics)

" The ideal for a cone/surround assembly is an extended range of linearity or "pistonic" motion ...."

However it has been found that in very many cases domes and inverted cones are almost as effective as flat pistons and have other very worthwhile benefits, primarily structural.

{from the same article)

"The cone stiffness/damping plus the surround's linearity/damping play a crucial role in accuracy of the reproduced voice coil signal waveform."

Quote
I was here to inform the autor of this topic that a small bass reflex monitor as the JBL LSR305 (slogan : hear the truth ::) ) is a small bass reflex loudspeaker wit a very sharp roll off in the bass and is designed to match the "Harman listener preference curve" which is gentle downward slope 10 dB across the spectrum, 1dB/octave.

In fact Harman has spent years and vast sums of time and money developing their listener preference curve. It is even covered by Patent US8311232 - "Method for predicting loudspeaker preference ."

Now, with no authority but his own opinion, a person who hides behind an unknown alias  is faulting Harman for doing so! Interestingly enough he characterizes it so incompletely as to be incorrect. Please refer to the patent: Harman listener preference patent with curves (note plural).


Quote
You can call it warm, dark or boomy if the rolloff is too sharp. thanks for reading  :D

Needless to say, many highly credentialed audio professionals and even just plain regular audiophiles such as myself disagree.

For one thing the bass roll off of an  speaker in the bass range is highly dependent on the space it is in and its position in that space.  Therefore it can't be characterized just one way as our correspondent, identified by only a hidden alias, ignorantly asserts.

If one wants smooth, well-balanced bass,  careful placement, electronic equalization and addition or one or more subwoofers, if intellgently executed can be a great help. For example my LSR 308 based system has two independently equalized 12" subwoofers and the 308's themselves are also electronically equalized.

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #36
The shape of the membrane would also have influence, no ?

Very little actually.
The emissive surface of a flat membrane is vastly inferior to a deep cone, everyone shoud understand it easly.

Just as everyone will understand that heavy objects fall faster than light ones, as proven by Aristotle.

Unfortunately no one actually bothered to check this out until Galileo.

But the effect of driver shape on various sound qualities has, unfortunately for you, been checked many times and I'm afraid reality disagrees with you.    Actually acoustic theory does as well, but that's only because the theory is based on actual evidence.

But I would be surprised if that changes your mind.
Ed Seedhouse
VA7SDH

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #37


Needless to say, many highly credentialed audio professionals and even just plain regular audiophiles such as myself disagree.

For one thing the bass roll off of an  speaker in the bass range is highly dependent on the space it is in and its position in that space.  Therefore it can't be characterized just one way as our correspondent, identified by only a hidden alias, ignorantly asserts.

If one wants smooth, well-balanced bass,  careful placement, electronic equalization and addition or one or more subwoofers, if intellgently executed can be a great help. For example my LSR 308 based system has two independently equalized 12" subwoofers and the 308's themselves are also electronically equalized.

The problem that i see, is how to ripp out the woofers out of the boxes to place them idealy in my room.
The sweet spot is not in front of me in my room, a separate source under 100Hz is requied because there is no rendering at all under this frequency coming from the front speakers... whatever loudspeakers i use.

IMHO room modes are too complex to predict (it is as the weather) and measurements and knowledge is a little part of the solution.

Just as everyone will understand that heavy objects fall faster than light ones, as proven by Aristotle.
Unfortunately no one actually bothered to check this out until Galileo.
But the effect of driver shape on various sound qualities has, unfortunately for you, been checked many times and I'm afraid reality disagrees with you.    Actually acoustic theory does as well, but that's only because the theory is based on actual evidence.
But I would be surprised if that changes your mind.

You are right.
I'm sorry to have been rough, but it was my last message ever on this topic, a kind of angry audiophile door slamming.
So i probably need to improve my theatrical skills !




Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #39
...and proper objective testing methodology, though this isn't an isolated problem.

Since all our technology is vastly unperfect there is always a intuitive small part in all methodologies and approach to the measurements.
It should be interesting to explore gated, ungated frequency responses and CSD graphs to caracterize my room and understand or reorient my choices but :
I was here to help sohalt in his quest of a good sound in a small room, as i've said it before choosing small pricey BR professionnal monitors is not a great resommandation if your room is canceling everything under 150Hz and highly reverberant.
Sometimes a small inexpensive 2.1 setup with an intelligently located sub perform a lot better.

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #40


Needless to say, many highly credentialed audio professionals and even just plain regular audiophiles such as myself disagree.

For one thing the bass roll off of an  speaker in the bass range is highly dependent on the space it is in and its position in that space.  Therefore it can't be characterized just one way as our correspondent, identified by only a hidden alias, ignorantly asserts.

If one wants smooth, well-balanced bass,  careful placement, electronic equalization and addition or one or more subwoofers, if intellgently executed can be a great help. For example my LSR 308 based system has two independently equalized 12" subwoofers and the 308's themselves are also electronically equalized.

The problem that i see, is how to ripp out the woofers out of the boxes to place them idealy in my room.

That is one of several good reasons for adding subwoofers even though your main speakers might have good enough bass under ideal circumstances.


Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #41
...and proper objective testing methodology, though this isn't an isolated problem.

Since all our technology is vastly unperfect there is always a intuitive small part in all methodologies and approach to the measurements.
It should be interesting to explore gated, ungated frequency responses and CSD graphs to caracterize my room and understand or reorient my choices but :
I was here to help sohalt in his quest of a good sound in a small room, as i've said it before choosing small pricey BR professionnal monitors is not a great resommandation if your room is canceling everything under 150Hz and highly reverberant.
Sometimes a small inexpensive 2.1 setup with an intelligently located sub perform a lot better.

Holme Impulse (Freeware) performs the equivalent of gated measurements.

The other somewhat technologically different tool is Room Eq Wizard (which actually produces similar results, over all), available for the same low price of free.

Either of these tools require a measurement-type mic for use, and there are several inexpensive USB mics to choose from including the Dayton Audio UMM-6  Dayton Audio UMM-6 

and the MiniDSP UMIK  MiniDSP UMIK

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #42
Thank you for your discussion.
I sadly didn't find the time to reply during the week, and don't have to much time now either, so I'll make this short:
After reading your posts I got the impression that going with the Behringer B2031 or JBL LSR305 or LSR308 might not be a bad idea after all, even with my small room size. A pair of any one of them would cost me between ~300 and 450€, so I'd still have more than enough budget left to buy a pre-amp and a subwoofer.
I'm thinking about first getting only the pair of near-field monitors to see whether their bass is sufficient for me and, if not, later getting a subwoofer in addition.

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #43
Thank you for your discussion.
I sadly didn't find the time to reply during the week, and don't have to much time now either, so I'll make this short:
After reading your posts I got the impression that going with the Behringer B2031 or JBL LSR305 or LSR308 might not be a bad idea after all, even with my small room size. A pair of any one of them would cost me between ~300 and 450€, so I'd still have more than enough budget left to buy a pre-amp and a subwoofer.
I'm thinking about first getting only the pair of near-field monitors to see whether their bass is sufficient for me and, if not, later getting a subwoofer in addition.

Go for it!

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #44
You should perhaps choose the smallest ones if you buy a subwoofer after, they should be easier to place.
And don't forget to toe them in and place them away from the rear wall (the BR port is on the back)

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #45
Beware of technically illiterate "advice" that plagues many fora.
I got the impression that going with the Behringer B2031 or JBL LSR305 or LSR308 might not be a bad idea after all, even with my small room size.
Contrary to audio folklore, bigger speakers are better in smaller rooms. While their deeper bass extension can excite lower modes than smaller speakers, their larger size gives them the advantage of being more directional over a wider bandwidth. Unlike LF modes, this is not correctable, via DSP or otherwise. That means they tend to be easier placed within the room while yielding acceptable spatial rendering given proximity to boundaries. The issues of peaks in the bass region, after optimized placement can be addressed via EQ.
It is better to have 2 sources exciting those bass modes than one, as has been suggested. The B2031, 308 and other similar active monitors have further benefits such as on board shelving and high pass filters, again making them easier to deal with bass/[placement issues.
Loudspeaker manufacturer

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #46
You should perhaps choose the smallest ones if you buy a subwoofer after, they should be easier to place.
And don't forget to toe them in and place them away from the rear wall (the BR port is on the back)

Unless the speaker is so large that driver blending suffers, there is a general tendency for larger speakers to sound better and smaller speakers to sound worse.

Small speakers inherently lack directivity control which means that they allow more of the room to degrade speaker sound quality.

In the group of speakers we're discussing, none of them are what I'd call  really large. For example the LSR 308 has 16.5 inches as its largest dimension. I'd p[ck the larger of the ones suggested every day of the week, all day long.

For example, the geneally small size of Bose speakers contributes to their lack of sound quality.

Also remember the LSR 305 and 308s are based on constant directivity horns, so the rule of thumb is that they will have the about same frequency response and therefore the same tone over a relatively wide frontal angle. As long as you can see the tweeter diaphragm from your listening location, things are going to be pretty good.

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #47
Beware of technically illiterate "advice" that plagues many fora.
I got the impression that going with the Behringer B2031 or JBL LSR305 or LSR308 might not be a bad idea after all, even with my small room size.
Contrary to audio folklore, bigger speakers are better in smaller rooms. While their deeper bass extension can excite lower modes than smaller speakers, their larger size gives them the advantage of being more directional over a wider bandwidth. Unlike LF modes, this is not correctable, via DSP or otherwise. That means they tend to be easier placed within the room while yielding acceptable spatial rendering given proximity to boundaries. The issues of peaks in the bass region, after optimized placement can be addressed via EQ.
It is better to have 2 sources exciting those bass modes than one, as has been suggested. The B2031, 308 and other similar active monitors have further benefits such as on board shelving and high pass filters, again making them easier to deal with bass/[placement issues.

This is why i've build my monitors, slopes of the high and low pass filters have 12 increments on range of 24 Db and deported on a external box with big knobs on my desk  ;)

You should perhaps choose the smallest ones if you buy a subwoofer after, they should be easier to place.
And don't forget to toe them in and place them away from the rear wall (the BR port is on the back)

Unless the speaker is so large that driver blending suffers, there is a general tendency for larger speakers to sound better and smaller speakers to sound worse.
Small speakers inherently lack directivity control which means that they allow more of the room to degrade speaker sound quality.
In the group of speakers we're discussing, none of them are what I'd call  really large. For example the LSR 308 has 16.5 inches as its largest dimension. I'd p[ck the larger of the ones suggested every day of the week, all day long.
For example, the geneally small size of Bose speakers contributes to their lack of sound quality.
Also remember the LSR 305 and 308s are based on constant directivity horns, so the rule of thumb is that they will have the about same frequency response and therefore the same tone over a relatively wide frontal angle. As long as you can see the tweeter diaphragm from your listening location, things are going to be pretty good.

The directivity is not fantastic, a big hole in the mids and shrill highs.


Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #48
I agree, it looks like a big hole if we look at the measurements from 0°-90°.

If we look at a frequency graph, the big hole is not so big anymore. Here you can see the measurements from "Sound&Recording" magazine. While it does not looks as good as the Neumann KH120 or Genelec 8351, the reviewer stated that the directivity of the LSR305/308 is amongst the best.

Re: Complete HiFi Setup (from scratch) - Buying Reccomendations

Reply #49
If we look at a frequency graph, the big hole is not so big anymore. Here you can see the measurements from "Sound&Recording" magazine. While it does not looks as good as the Neumann KH120 or Genelec 8351, the reviewer stated that the directivity of the LSR305/308 is amongst the best.

Many people are unfamiliar with directivity and frequency response plots such as these. They are a lot more relevant and easy to understand if there is an apples to apples comparison (none in this thread yet that I can see) instead of comparisons to things that are completely undocumented in the thread. 

Without an actual competitive equipment plots for comparison, I fear that the tendency may be to compare a real world speaker with some imaginary perfect speaker. The claim that a home built speaker with fancy level controls is superior IMO completely misses the point.

Fancy level controls don't do a lot for directivity control or frequency response, especially in comparison to a speaker that is based on constant-directivity drivers instead of point source tweeters, and DSP-based frequency contouring as opposed to the inherent problems of trying to do the same thing with a few passive components in the analog domain. All this in a speaker that is not on the market. Is this not completely OT?

I never said that the  LSR305/308 is perfect or even amongst the best simply because I don't know. I will say that it is IME (with other real commercial speakers that anyone can buy) they are better than any of its like-priced competition. 

Around here the obvious competition have been the two Behringer Truths. In general, is both listening comparisons including some ABX-ing, and also with measurements, the larger JBLs are preferred. 

Comparison to more conventional speakers is also interesting and generally shows advantage: JBL.