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Topic: Best price/value DAC's (Read 35496 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #25
I am not sure weather it meets most of this forums members threshold of value.
https://hydrogenaud.io/index.php/topic,3974.msg149481.html#msg149481
Well you obviously would not hear a difference playing them on a Samsung GT-S5830L or a common PC. However,  I would love to know weather anybody hears a difference using a decent audio-setup and the DAC's mentioned by me.
This amounts to no more than elitist bullshit.

Read the above link: put up or shut up.
Strange response.

Not really.  You're telling a moderator that you don't feel like following the forum guidelines you agreed to when you signed up.  Expect a negative response.

I was only saying "I am not sure" and "I would like to know". What is so elitist about that?

The presumption that normal people don't have a good enough PC to evaluate the difference between lossless and AAC audio player on a cell phone is extremely elitist.  And almost certainly wrong.
No, Phoenix1 was insinuating he could not hear the difference. I will gladly believe that you cannot hear the difference on a common PC (maybe there are good ones with great speakers on which you can. I don't no). What I do know is that the quality and detail that comes from my phone and my computerspeakers do not even compare to the quality and detail that comes from my Audio set. And I was curious weather others can. But clearly this forum is not for me. To many people with a history of fight and chips on their shoulder. I just came here for some help since I don't know to much about the subject and the only thing I receipt was being harassed by moderators. Nice forum. Keep up the good work.

Then, show us the ABX log of the files that I've linked using your audio set.

What is an ABX log? And is ABX not a listening test? How do I log my ears?

By the way I don't have DAC yet. That why I started this thread in the first place. To get informed on DAC's, by asking peoples opinions about the "supposed to be good DAC" that I found on the net. And maybe people on this forum allready did ABX-tests on those or other DAC's ? Is that so much to ask for? Is not that what forums are supposed to be all about? Help people instead of harassing them in GOD-like elitist way.

You need foobar2000. And this: http://www.foobar2000.org/components/view/foo_abx

There are plenty of guides on internet of how to use it, but to resume it, select test A and test B on foobar2000, rightclick, utilities, ABXtracks. Choose the trail count (preferably >10) and start. You have to tell whether not "Play X" is "Play B" or "Play A". (Obviously if for example "Play X" is "Play B", then "Play A" is "Play Y").




And then? I don't have a DAC.
Why is there nobody here that is even willing to give his personal opion on mentioned DAC's? or others?
May than I can start to select some DAC's which I can try out with my "liberated ears".


 

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #26
Probably because:

"All members that put forth a statement concerning subjective sound quality, must -- to the best of their ability -- provide objective support for their claims.  Acceptable means of support are double blind listening tests (ABX or ABC/HR) demonstrating that the member can discern a difference perceptually, together with a test sample to allow others to reproduce their findings.  Graphs, non-blind listening tests, waveform difference comparisons, and so on, are not acceptable means of providing support."

...gets in the way of reporting differences between devices which are purely imagined.  Cases where some boutique DAC is intentionally designed to have its own signature "sound" (read: degraded through coloration, IOW: broken) don't find their way here likely because those interested in such garbage find this community anathematic.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #27
Probably because:

"All members that put forth a statement concerning subjective sound quality, must -- to the best of their ability -- provide objective support for their claims.  Acceptable means of support are double blind listening tests (ABX or ABC/HR) demonstrating that the member can discern a difference perceptually, together with a test sample to allow others to reproduce their findings.  Graphs, non-blind listening tests, waveform difference comparisons, and so on, are not acceptable means of providing support."

...gets in the way of reporting differences between devices which are purely imagined.  Cases where some boutique DAC is intentionally designed to have its own signature "sound" (read: degraded through coloration) don't find there way here likely because those interested in such garbage find this community anathematic.

And do you guys maybe have a list of ABX tested DAC's that states with which DAC you can and with wich DAC you cannot hear a difference on your audio-set between files with a quality difference that should be just hearable by people with good hearing?

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #28
It sounds like you are actually asking for a fairly ordinary AV receiver and possibly a WiFi audio bridge for the devices that are too far to run RCA cables to. 
Thanks. Could you maybe elaborate a bit on this. So as I understand why this is what I am looking for (instead of a DAC or so)?

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #29
I am not sure weather it meets most of this forums members threshold of value.
https://hydrogenaud.io/index.php/topic,3974.msg149481.html#msg149481
Well you obviously would not hear a difference playing them on a Samsung GT-S5830L or a common PC. However,  I would love to know weather anybody hears a difference using a decent audio-setup and the DAC's mentioned by me.
This amounts to no more than elitist bullshit.

Read the above link: put up or shut up.
Strange response.

Not really.  You're telling a moderator that you don't feel like following the forum guidelines you agreed to when you signed up.  Expect a negative response.

I was only saying "I am not sure" and "I would like to know". What is so elitist about that?

The presumption that normal people don't have a good enough PC to evaluate the difference between lossless and AAC audio player on a cell phone is extremely elitist.  And almost certainly wrong.
No, Phoenix1 was insinuating he could not hear the difference. I will gladly believe that you cannot hear the difference on a common PC (maybe there are good ones with great speakers on which you can. I don't no). What I do know is that the quality and detail that comes from my phone and my computerspeakers do not even compare to the quality and detail that comes from my Audio set. And I was curious weather others can. But clearly this forum is not for me. To many people with a history of fight and chips on their shoulder. I just came here for some help since I don't know to much about the subject and the only thing I receipt was being harassed by moderators. Nice forum. Keep up the good work.

Then, show us the ABX log of the files that I've linked using your audio set.

What is an ABX log? And is ABX not a listening test? How do I log my ears?

By the way I don't have DAC yet. That why I started this thread in the first place. To get informed on DAC's, by asking peoples opinions about the "supposed to be good DAC" that I found on the net. And maybe people on this forum allready did ABX-tests on those or other DAC's ? Is that so much to ask for? Is not that what forums are supposed to be all about? Help people instead of harassing them in GOD-like elitist way.

You need foobar2000. And this: http://www.foobar2000.org/components/view/foo_abx

There are plenty of guides on internet of how to use it, but to resume it, select test A and test B on foobar2000, rightclick, utilities, ABXtracks. Choose the trail count (preferably >10) and start. You have to tell whether not "Play X" is "Play B" or "Play A". (Obviously if for example "Play X" is "Play B", then "Play A" is "Play Y").




And then? I don't have a DAC.
Why is there nobody here that is even willing to give his personal opion on mentioned DAC's? or others?
May than I can start to select some DAC's which I can try out with my "liberated ears".



It gives you your results. You can use the DAC of your computer.

It just makes no sense, how could the integrated audio of my motherboard be so bad that its "bad sound" is not detected after being degraded once more?

And I have tested other phones, there's one where I've notice something, it is a Samsung galaxy Y (A even shitter phone). Will try to upload what I've recorded soon (I'm not on the computer where I uploaded the first two samples).

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #30
An ideal solution would solve the below mentioned situation.

Like many people I have a invested in the past in a decent analogue audioset (my Amp has RCA-jacks only). And I don't want to put that investment to waste.

However I do wish to digitize my Vinyl- and CD-collection into 24bit-192kHz flac files, and be able to play them lossless (thus without cable induced jitter) on my analogue set. I would like to listen to music from the internet (downloading or streaming) on my audioset, or to listen to audio from video's that I play on my TV (For instance with Blu-ray player).

And I would like to use my laptop, I-pad and TV as both monitor to control which music should be played on which device at a certain moment (for example with XMBC?) and as mediaplayer. Among those audiostreams could be DTS or Dolby 7.1 sources while my analogue audioset only takes in 2-channel Stereo.

In other words I would like be able to control on any monitor In my house which music I would like to play on which connected device(s). And all music sources (even DTS and Dolby 7.1 compressed into 24-bit 192kHz flac files) should be transported by cable or by air without loss of quality (so without compression-loss and without jitter).  Which means that digital decoding and digital to analog conversion should take place as close as possible to the loudspeakers.

However, it would take a great effort, and money, to run UTP or HDMI cables everywhere through my house. So I try to avoid this if possible.

I have my digital files on a harddisk connected to my laptop (If necessary I'm willing to invest in a separate NAS). My laptop (with connected harddisk) is located 6 meters from my audioset.
I can run a cable between my laptop and my audioset fairly easy .

My TV is located 6 meters from my audioset and my laptop. However running a cable from my TV to my audioset or laptop would take great effort.

My internet router is located 7 meters from my TV, 10 meters from my laptop and 15 meters from my audioset. I can run a cable between my Internet router and my TV fairly easy . However running a cable from my Internet router to my audioset or laptop would take great effort.

What solution(s) would you advice?

(If no decent solution for the above situation, with good price/value, is available then I would settle with a simple DAC for now. As long as I helps me to play my flac files on my analogue audio-set.)


Move everything closer together. Find a way.

I agree with saratoga, an AV receiver would be good.
With an AV receiver, you have all your sources plugged into the receiver (computer, blu-ray player, game console, etc). The receiver is plugged into your tv, and has a built-in dac/amp for your speakers as well. Then you can switch between multiple audio/video sources with the push of a button.

My setup has a desktop permanently plugged into the receiver. It's on and running Foobar2000 pretty much at all times. Foobar has plugins that will let it play just about any format and also control it over the network.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #31
I do the same thing but stream audio and video to an Apple TV using iTunes and which I can control with my iPhone/iPod/iPad or stream directly from the device.  I also plug a 64GB USB stick into a Roku 3.

We plan on moving the office to the back of the house at which time I'll likely run CAT5 to where it is needed. The wireless access point will probably stay put, though a repeater is still up for consideration.

To me, long HDMI runs make sense if you want the TV on its own wall.  YMMV.

The OP should seriously question the necessity of silly overkill samplerates which can really only serve to hinder audio quality with otherwise competently designed devices.  48kHz is more than adequate for human consumption of content. Severe contortions are also necessary in order to attempt to justify the need for more than 16 bits.  The forum has seen more than its share of hand waving on the matter with little to no real meaningful or compelling evidence.  I see no need to carry that on in this topic as well.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #32

It gives you your results. You can use the DAC of your computer.

It just makes no sense, how could the integrated audio of my motherboard be so bad that its "bad sound" is not detected after being degraded once more?

And I have tested other phones, there's one where I've notice something, it is a Samsung galaxy Y (A even shitter phone). Will try to upload what I've recorded soon (I'm not on the computer where I uploaded the first two samples).

OK. So you are telling me a DAC is useless because the DAC in my PC probably allready is good enough, right? Why didn't you say that from the start. Would have made it all a lot simpler. But at least that is info that helps. Thanks for that. What would be the best way to connect to my audioset? My audioset is located 5 mtr away from my PC. I cannot place them closer together.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #33
Move everything closer together. Find a way.

I agree with saratoga, an AV receiver would be good.
With an AV receiver, you have all your sources plugged into the receiver (computer, blu-ray player, game console, etc). The receiver is plugged into your tv, and has a built-in dac/amp for your speakers as well. Then you can switch between multiple audio/video sources with the push of a button.

My setup has a desktop permanently plugged into the receiver. It's on and running Foobar2000 pretty much at all times. Foobar has plugins that will let it play just about any format and also control it over the network.
OK That clears it up a bit for me. Thanks for that. However I really do not have any way to move things closer together. The layout of my living room together with a big bookcase and another hobby (aquarium) make it impossible to move things. As it is right now my PC, TV and audioset stand is a sort of triangle appart from each other. Distance between PC and audio is 5 mtr but easy for connection with cable. Shortest distance between PC and TV and between TV and audio is both about 6 mtr direct line through air (9 mtr for direct cable). But both almost impossible for connection with direct cable. Between TV and audio there might be a still difficult way to cable but then over a distance of 15 mtr. And of course I have a router, located 7 meters from my TV, 10 meters from my laptop and 15 meters from my audioset. Which I can easily connect with cable to my TV but not to my PC or Audio. That's the situation in which I hope to be able to create good connections between all of them. 

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #34
I do the same thing but stream audio and video to an Apple TV using iTunes and which I can control with my iPhone/iPod/iPad or stream directly from the device.  I also plug a 64GB USB stick into a Roku 3.

We plan on moving the office to the back of the house at which time I'll likely run CAT5 to where it is needed. The wireless access point will probably stay put, though a repeater is still up for consideration.

To me, long HDMI runs make sense if you want the TV on its own wall.  YMMV.

The OP should seriously question the necessity of silly overkill samplerates which can really only serve to hinder audio quality with otherwise competently designed devices.  48kHz is more than adequate for human consumption of content. Severe contortions are also necessary in order to attempt to justify the need for more than 16 bits.  The forum has seen more than its share of hand waving on the matter with little to no real meaningful or compelling evidence.  I see no need to carry that on in this topic as well.
Thanks for that info. So you suggest that I convert my 24-192 and 24-96 files files to 48-16 because ABX tests have proven it does not make a difference even on really good audio-sets, right? After I read your post I took the liberty of searching for some decent convertors. I found Final-CD and SSRC. I think that together with a DOS-batch file I can get them to do the job for me fast. What's your verdict on those?

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #35
...gets in the way of reporting differences between devices which are purely imagined.  Cases where some boutique DAC is intentionally designed to have its own signature "sound" (read: degraded through coloration, IOW: broken) don't find their way here likely because those interested in such garbage find this community anathematic.
Do I understand that PC DAC's do not have this problem or do you still advice a separate DAC? How do I find out whether my PC DAC colors the sound of my flac files?

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #36
You play a reference signal an record the output. Right Mark (RMAA) is one way (for measurable differences). Another is to record content of your choice and ABX for audible differences. What did Phoenix1 do?

I wouldn't resample content unless my hardware required that I do it, but I also wouldn't go out of my way to get specifi hardware just to support content, at say 192kHz, for example. Resampling is fine; foobar2000 can do it on the fly so you don't have to do it to your files.  Purchasing or creating content at higher than necessary bitrates simply for the sake of having them at those bitrates is dumb.  Vinyl at >48/16 as a final delivery format is especially dumb.  There is too much noise and distortion intrinsic to the medium to warrant it.

Regarding the component separation conundrum, I mentioned AppleTV and Roku, both support Ethernet and WiFi. Some AVRs support these as well, as do other devices.  It still might make the most sense to get an inexpensive DAC to feed your analog receiver than replacing it with an AVR, provided it works with your content. I've gotten along with the TV doing that job before, though maybe not the most ideal considering it also has to be turned on for audio-only content.  They're also a nonstarter for >2-channel content, though this may also be the case with a receiver that has no digital inputs.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #37
You play a reference signal an record the output. Right Mark (RMAA) is one way (for measurable differences). Another is to record content of your choice and ABX for audible differences. What did Phoenix1 do?
let's assume my installation slightly colors the reference signal. Than I would hear the colored signal (if that coloration is hearable at all). However, I would not know how the undistorted signal sounds. To measure the full distortion (if I had the proper equipment for that) I would have to record the sound with a microphone near my speaker. This recordingproces in itself would create some distortion of which I don't know wether it is hearable or not. Than I would have to replay that recording and I don't know how much impact the extra distortion has on an allready distorded signal. If I hear a difference than where does that come from, my installation or the recording. If I don't hear a difference does that mean there is no distortion or just that the difference between single or double distortion is not hearable? You see the methodological problem?

I wouldn't resample content unless my hardware required that I do it, but I also wouldn't go out of my way to get specifi hardware just to support content, at say 192kHz, for example. Resampling is fine; foobar2000 can do it on the fly so you don't have to do it to your files.  Purchasing or creating content at higher than necessary bitrates simply for the sake of having them at those bitrates is dumb.  Vinyl at >48/16 as a final delivery format is especially dumb.  There is too much noise and distortion intrinsic to the medium to warrant it.
That's clear thanks.

Regarding the component separation conundrum, I mentioned AppleTV and Roku, both support Ethernet and WiFi. Some AVRs support these as well, as do other devices.  It still might make the most sense to get an inexpensive DAC to feed your analog receiver than replacing it with an AVR, provided it works with your content. I've gotten along with the TV doing that job before, though maybe not the most ideal considering it also has to be turned on for audio-only content.  They're also a nonstarter for >2-channel content, though this may also be the case with a receiver that has no digital inputs.
Hmm, I already have a Minix NEO-X8-Plus connected to my TV. It also has wifi. Could that be part of the solution? If so, maybe somebody knows how to configure this? Or knows of a guide for this (I'll also start searching myself on the internet)?
Maybe working together with a wifi-DAC connected between my PC and audioset (Just brainstorming without knowing what's really possible)?

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #38
Rip your cd s on your laptop and move the files to a USB hard drive. Connect that drive to your Minix and run a media server on that. Output audio direct from the Minix to your sound system?

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #39
Rip your cd s on your laptop and move the files to a USB hard drive. Connect that drive to your Minix and run a media server on that. Output audio direct from the Minix to your sound system?
I allready have Kodi on the Minix. So that could work. Kodi at the moment is not very user friendly for music but the new version is supposed to be improved on that. Thanks for the suggestion. The only problem that rest than is how to get sound from the Minix to my audio system, since I cannot connect them together with cable. Once that is solved maybe I can also play sound from TV or streamed video's to my audioset? or is that impossible this way?

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #40
^ Kodi is a UPnP server.  Use it to wirelessly send signal to a Chromecast Audio plugged into your system via analog or optical digital. Control via smartphone/tablet.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #41
^ Kodi is a UPnP server.  Use it to wirelessly send signal to a Chromecast Audio plugged into your system via analog or optical digital. Control via smartphone/tablet.
Sounds very interesting. Does anybody have experience with this configuration? How does it work quality and stability wise? Where can I find  a good guide to get this working together with Kodi on my Minix? Of course I will search myself also but if any body allready knows of a good guide it would help me speed up the process. Can I also use my computer to send music wireless to this googlecast audio device?

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #42
No direct experience of kodi for music but generally all the upnp server software I have tried has worked more or less perfectly. What OS do you have on the Minix? If android try bubbleupnp on the Minix. I use it on my android phone and it is excellent as a control point for kodi and other upnp devices.

One issue with the Chromecast is that apparently it cannot do gapless playback, in case that matters to you. 

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #43
No direct experience of kodi for music but generally all the upnp server software I have tried has worked more or less perfectly. What OS do you have on the Minix? If android try bubbleupnp on the Minix. I use it on my android phone and it is excellent as a control point for kodi and other upnp devices.

One issue with the Chromecast is that apparently it cannot do gapless playback, in case that matters to you. 
My Minix NEO-X8 plus runs on android. Gapless playback would be nice. However on the other hand it's not clever tot split gapless music (live, classic or pink floyd and the likes) into separate files either.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #44
However on the other hand it's not clever tot split gapless music (live, classic or pink floyd and the likes) into separate files either.

I disagree. I have lots of gapless albums and all my players handle them perfectly, even though ripped as separate FLAC tracks.  Squeezeboxes, SONOS, Roon Endpoints, foobar2000, among others.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #45
However on the other hand it's not clever tot split gapless music (live, classic or pink floyd and the likes) into separate files either.

I disagree. I have lots of gapless albums and all my players handle them perfectly, even though ripped as separate FLAC tracks.  Squeezeboxes, SONOS, Roon Endpoints, foobar2000, among others.
Yes because they can but what is the need? Unless you wish to listen to parts of music that has no pauzes and don't mind they stop abruptly. I'll be honest I also tended to rip into seperate files, but then again I never had to worry about that because I could replay them gapless on my PC. But thinking about it in hind side I think I would not do it like that again.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #46
I apologise. I fell into the habit of recommending a particular solution based on my subjective experience. And the thing I love about this place is that it requires you to research and decide things for yourself, but gives great ideas on ways you can do this. The posts above on abx are great examples of this. 

Consider you have two separate issues: one is transport, or how to make your music files available to devices in your home, and the other is digital to analogue conversion. The latter is covered by the abx discussion above. For the former look at eg UPNP server software, apple equivalents etc. It seems you already have most of what you need but I apologise if I have unintentionally sent you in a wrong direction.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #47
However on the other hand it's not clever tot split gapless music (live, classic or pink floyd and the likes) into separate files either.

I disagree. I have lots of gapless albums and all my players handle them perfectly, even though ripped as separate FLAC tracks.  Squeezeboxes, SONOS, Roon Endpoints, foobar2000, among others.
Yes because they can but what is the need? Unless you wish to listen to parts of music that has no pauzes and don't mind they stop abruptly. I'll be honest I also tended to rip into seperate files, but then again I never had to worry about that because I could replay them gapless on my PC. But thinking about it in hind side I think I would not do it like that again.

The main reason is compatibility.  Gapless is pretty widely supported these days even on portable devices.  Conversely, very few things support cue + FLAC, so outside of your PC, you'd be giving up any sort of track indexing without transcoding/splitting.  Of course if you were willing to transcode to MP3/AAC for portable use anyway, then it won't matter.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #48
let's assume my installation slightly colors the reference signal. Than I would hear the colored signal (if that coloration is hearable at all). However, I would not know how the undistorted signal sounds. To measure the full distortion (if I had the proper equipment for that) I would have to record the sound with a microphone near my speaker. This recordingproces in itself would create some distortion of which I don't know wether it is hearable or not. Than I would have to replay that recording and I don't know how much impact the extra distortion has on an allready distorded signal. If I hear a difference than where does that come from, my installation or the recording. If I don't hear a difference does that mean there is no distortion or just that the difference between single or double distortion is not hearable? You see the methodological problem?

A microphone is used when you want to check the distortion of the speakers themselves.

If you want to record the distortion from your amp, you have to do the loopback test from the speaker output of your amp while you have a load (resistor) connected to the amp (close to the impedance of your speakers). However there's a detail, It is usually performed with a 1W load, that's 2.82 Vrms for a 8 Ohm resistor, 2.82 Vrms is certainly going to saturate the line in of your computer, so you will need to create a voltage divider to attenuate the signal at the line in.

Here's how you connect everything: Diagram

I don't know the input impedance of the line in of your PC, The attenuation might be more than needed if it turns out to have a <10K Zin, which is unlikely.

Notice that I did not connect the ground of the output of the speaker amp to the ground of the line in, that's because there's already a ground connection established between the line in and line out of your PC, the amp's ground is already connected to the line out ground of the PC. However, always check, if the output of your amp is isolated, then you will need do that connection.

Re: Best price/value DAC's

Reply #49

Why is there nobody here that is even willing to give his personal opion on mentioned DAC's? or others?

(1) Because there are over 500 different DACs on the market, and the odds that I'd have a DAC that you are interested in is extremely low unless it is a very common one.

(2) Because audible differences between DACs is usually a well-known audiophile myth