Skip to main content

Recent Posts

1
Support - (fb2k) / Foobar Filter
Last post by slayerist -
Hello all,

I have a column/filter displaying band's albums url.

I want to be able to open a browser and visit that specific address when i click on the url listed in that column/filter.

Thanks in advanced,
2
You seem to have vastly underestimated how much myth and legend backs up spikes and isolation pads.

I obviously have. It was never my intention to make huge claims to the effectiveness of coupling-decoupling techniques, that's why I did not even mention it in particular initially, though I realise that this topic is sitting on that base now.


The technology behind the ability of equalization to address problems like these is so solid and widely accepeted that the point is pre-approved today. [...] OTOH I can't see how one could gather much relevant evidence without out comparing a system with spikes and pads to one that lacked them or used a different configuration of them.

I wasn't writing about equalization in particular, in fact, I was reffering to supplying tests that could have been based on altered sound files in general. The only way in which I could prove my experience would be to involve multiple neutral people documenting what I do and conduct various tests with sound files beyond my control, else it would be a waste of time, since nobody would be convinced that the results are real and reproducible. I simply don't have the time or resources to do that at this point. And frankly not a very good reason to, either.


I'm not worried about you tricking me or my friends. I'm worried about you tricking yourself which seems to be already accomplished.
The "bettering of bass" you experience after fiddling with decoupling is only your brain adjusting to the new sound. Keep going and one day it will simply feel "right". Its not of course. This burn-in of your brain to the new sound ... (get where I am going with this?) [...] I do like your 3 spikes idea - won't help with your problems of course, [...]

I must say that it's quite funny that you're trying to explain the sense-adjustment functionalities of my brain to me, one of the many areas of neurology which is still widely unexplored, without any evidence whatsoever, while demanding me to prove my claims vigorously.

So, you won't believe that some random guy on the internet was able to achieve these differences in sound with the modifications he made to his setup. That's fine. I understand that. But since you seem to be unable to display reliable evidence on how you got to your solid pespective on this, maybe, just as a constructive advice, consider to broaden your research a little bit.


Quote
however I have not used any software equalizer before

It is very clear that you are very unfamiliar with the concepts of equalization and frequency response.

Let me rephrase that as well: I *have* used software and hardware equalizers before, both multiple band and parametric equalizers (which I actually also currently do when mixing my own music tracks as a hobby), just not on this particular machine with this setup for the general output, since I haven't felt the need to before.

The reason why I hadn't thought of using an EQ before to solve the bass issues also was not because I considered it to be "difficult" or had fear towards trying out software, as you had assumed. I simply hadn't considered it. I guess, because I haven't used one this way in years and it would have felt like trying to battle a physical issue with a software solution, which surely would have worked as well eventually, but did not occur to me. I was aware that some people used isolation pads against bass, so that's what I looked into first.

Also, I am now going to disagree with you a bit and state that setting up an EQ so that each parameter will perfectly match the exact bass frequencies that were sticking out can be an extensive process of identifying all problematic frequencies and adjusting them correctly. It's not particularly hard, but it's also not a 5-minute process overall.


Welcome to room sound. You have two choices: Either believe what reviews and marketing and "general forums" say about EQ, or you can educate yourself to point where you will completely dismiss all that "fake news" (sorry) Then you save 100 bucks and buy a measurement microphone.

Hey ev13wt,

I *saved* 100 bucks with what I did. I was never going to buy expensive gold cones anointed with Rick Rubin's ear wax. Had I bought a measurement microphone, I would've at least paid three to four times the price I did to begin with.

I'm not saying that this is a bad idea though - in fact, the article you linked seems interesting and I'm going to have a closer read later on. This is definitely a more "correct" way to do this, but as I mentioned, I have no need for further adjustments currently, since the modifications did the trick in my case.


For starters, you should read up / Google about "room modes" and "standing waves". If you want to go a bit further, read Floyd Tooles book:  Sound Reproduction: The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms (Audio Engineering Society Presents) 

Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't had much knowledge on room acoustics, yet. And I also can't tell you what exactly happened that caused my perceptions. Maybe the cones did have very little effect themselves. Maybe it's the 5cm elevation of the speakers and the slightly different angle now, more than that. Maybe the foam pieces behind the bass reflex openings are also responsible, reducing the space to the back wall a little. You could probably identify the effects of these various small changes better than me. 


[...] but the "self leveling" is a cool idea. Makes for tippy speakers if someone bumps into them.


Actually, they aren't even that tippy, even if you were to bump into them. Three points of contact are enough, the weight also helps. Since I placed them on two corners and in the middle of the opposing edge, you really have to push down on the unsupported corners on top to tip them over, else they will just move sideways.

And that was the whole point from the beginning: If you need to put things beneath the thing, consider trying to use three things in a triangle instead of four and spare yourself the additional problems and work I did.


When you're done reading, you measure your room with and without the spikes. Mark the speaker locations! Report back! It will be interesting to see the data.

That's definitely something I will look into, but don't have the time or money for currently, so don't expect anything too soon.
3
My system has a noticeable turn on thump and I have always powered things up (and down) manually and in order.  I now want to be able to power everything up at once and so I examined my system component by component.  I found that the preamp is causing the turn on and off thump.  (Without the preamp, there is a very small thump that I can live with.)  The culprit is my Sumo Athena preamp, which sounds great and seems to be working well except for this problem.  So, I would like some help in diagnosing and repairing  this problem.  Can anyone direct me to posts or articles on this subject?

BTW, I don't have schematics for this piece.  Apparently, Sumo never released them and they are very hard to come by.

One common strategy for avoiding preamp turn on spikes is to turn the power amp on after the preamp has stabilized.  There are power management devices that do that.  This device looks about right: https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=604830&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz_TMBRD0ARIsADfk7hQVzk9BXUMipdl4W8TT7_yzgaBuFQ7OL0K45baDlBMrU2-1rvCcIVcaAmepEALw_wcB

Another strategy is to ensure that the power supply of the preamp stabilizes very rapidly or very slowly. Either strategy can work, or not. The theory of the fast stabilizing strategy is to let the preamp get stabilized before the power amp starts passing signals. The theory of slow stabilizing is to try to reduce the rate of stabilizing until it is so slow that  any thumps that are created are at such a low frequency that they are below the bandpass of the power amp and get lost in its low frequency roll-off. Neither approach has to necessarily work, but either often may work.

Common means to accomplish these strategies is to make the power supply and coupling caps in the preamp either as large or small as possible consistent with general goals for adequate frequency response.

One common set of circumstances is that the electrolytic caps in the preamp degrade over time as they are naturally prone to do, and this essentially changes the design of the preamp. This is one way that re-capping or capacitor upgrades can yield real improvements. The sound is really no different, but the thumps may be reduced or eliminated.

Other strategies include simply throwing this legacy crap away and getting good modern gear that works right. A lot of modern gear does this by design. For example my fairly modern AVR is so digital that it has to boot which takes time, and it has a relay that doesn't hook up the speakers until the AVR finishes booting. This takes about 3-5 seconds.  The other components in  my system could be thumping away to high heaven, and by the time the speakers get hooked up, the excitement is all over.
4
General Audio / Re: Parametric EQ and Crossfeed for Android?
Last post by lélé -
I gave a try to Neutralizer and I'd like to thank you because it proposes a very interesting approach.

As far as I understood Neutralizer relies on Android EQ.
It seems to work fine with all my streaming applications: very good point!
I just regret it is limited to 12 bands which does not allow 'fine tuning' in the highs, where my (current) IEM frequency response curve is quite 'bumpy' and where my audition suffered more of abuse and time.

Equalizing every bump and null, and/or within a fraction of a dB does not necessarily contribute significantly to listening pleasure.

Our ability to even detect a frequency response discontinuity goes down as it gets narrower. 

Freedom from detection is a far more sensitive to what is required for the perception of natural balance, or listening pleasure.


Quote
I am still looking for a solution for cross feed that can be used with my streaming application by the way...
Any suggestion?

Fix the tracks.  Many audio editors have channel mixing features. Ideally, you'd access the .wav versions, add a little cross feed, and then re-apply any compression that you might have chosen.

IME there are not a large number of tracks that don't have any crossfeed at all or are objectionable because they have way too much separation.  For example, there are all those old Beetles tracks that are essentially two channel mono, with all of the instruments and voices slammed to one channel extreme to the exclusion of the other.  Those represent a short term phase, and for a variety of reasons including mono compatibility and compatibility with cheap LP players, that phase mostly went away pretty quickly.

Some recordings with extreme channel assignment and mixing or un-mixing are still made, but it seems like they were intentional, and part of the artistic experience of listening to them.

Hello!

Many thanks for your answer.

As for the connection of 'bumps' and 'dips' in the highs, they can have very large amplitude (but narrow bandwidth) with headphones and, even worse, with IEM. Plus I guess those can be quite user dependent with IEM (depending on tips used, filters used and insertion depth). I would have been curious to see if it can be corrected with an EQ like Neutralizer.
But you might be right and the most important remains the general presentation. Plus I guess correction of large amplitude on narrow bandwidth may worsen things instead of correcting them (and introduce artefacts?).

Regarding excessive stereo separation, unfortunately, I cannot fix the tracks because I use streaming platforms. At the moment I am trying Qobuz and Spotify to assess which service suits me better. I will probably give a try to Tidal too.
In any case, I don't want to go back to the 'old fashioned way' for a lot of reasons, including:
  • I listen to music from my android device several hours per day. I enjoy discovering artists and albums that I don't know. For such purpose, streaming is very convenient and very cheap.
  • Ripping or downloading is too time consuming and too expansive(assuming you go for legal offer).
So I am still looking for an Android application that offer a good cross feed feature and can be used in parallel with streaming platforms apps.

Fred
5
Welcome to room sound. You have two choices: Either believe what reviews and marketing and "general forums" say about EQ, or you can educate yourself to point where you will completely dismiss all that "fake news" (sorry)

Then you save 100 bucks and buy a measurement microphone. You have a computer obviously. http://mathaudio.com/room-eq.htm

You moved your speakers, now you have new "standing waves". The "bettering of bass" you experience after fiddling with decoupling is only your brain adjusting to the new sound. Keep going and one day it will simply feel "right". Its not of course. This burn-in of your brain to the new sound ... (get where I am going with this?)


For starters, you should read up / Google about "room modes" and "standing waves". If you want to go a bit further, read Floyd Tooles book:   Sound Reproduction: The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms (Audio Engineering Society Presents) 

I do like your 3 spikes idea - won't help with your problems of course, but the "self leveling" is a cool idea. Makes for tippy speakers if someone bumps into them.


When you're done reading, you measure your room with and without the spikes. Mark the speaker locations! Report back! It will be interesting to see the data.
6
If changing the language code to 'eng' is all it needed, well that's one of the changes 3.100 will have out of the box.
7
Go to Preferences/File/Add Location/

and write something like:      spotify:album:401DhjeJg1yVIfBN2A55JY

where 401DhjeJg1yVIfBN2A55JY is the album code. To get the album codes I open Spotify Web Player. You need a premium account.

It works fine.

Ys
Rozzo
8
General Audio / Re: Diagnosing Preamp Turn-on Thump
Last post by dhromed -
15 seconds sounds like an extremely long time though. My amp only takes ~3 seconds to click on after I press the power button. Maybe it's a typo and should read 1.5 seconds?
9
That might be a possibility too. I'd expect for someone to at least know what tags are.
10
Frankly, from the original posting (what you call "faulty logic" yourself), I would not bet money on the OP being right about what is called "tags" and what is merely order of appearance in a playlist.

A suggestion that will work if it is a "well-known" album:
Install MusicBrainz Picard - which is a useful application anyway, I'd say - and let it tag based on audio fingerprint.
Then auto-rename the files.