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Topic: cdr dye stability (Read 6458 times) previous topic - next topic
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cdr dye stability

I'm looking to do some archiving on cdr/rw and was wondering which type is best in terms of longevity. I've picked up somewhere that cdr is generally more long-lived than cdrw (although correct me if i'm wrong on this). cdr lifetimes depend on dye stability, right? which dyes take the honours? also, do the much-vaunted extra protective/high-fidelity/cool-looking layers advertised actually make any difference here? any feedback, links appreciated.

cheers, tonderai

cdr dye stability

Reply #2 –
Yup. i did already read that thread  but i was looking for more exhaustive tests on the dyes available. however, maybe this shouldn't have been made a new thread ??? sorry

cdr dye stability

Reply #3 –
yeah probably, but ok.

as long as NEW material is posted instead of ppl having to answer the same questions over and over again it's ok.

cdr dye stability

Reply #4 –
Quote
Originally posted by tonderai
i was looking for more exhaustive tests on the dyes


Here:

www.cdmediaworld.com

Regards;

Roberto.

cdr dye stability

Reply #5 –
Real-life experiences : http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/3247

I just found a dead Traxdata 80, and borrowed another one burned the same day with the same content on a HiSpace 80 gold that is still readable.

But I must first find how to make my Yamaha CRW3200 read ATIPs in order to post this

cdr dye stability

Reply #6 –
Quote
Originally posted by Pio2001
But I must first find how to make my Yamaha CRW3200 read ATIPs in order to post this

?! It should be capable of reading ATIPs. Give CD-R Identifier a try.

cdr dye stability

Reply #7 –
Any ATIP reader failed (CDRIdentifier, EAC, Feurio).
Now, thanks to a hard disc crash and full reinstall, reading ATIP is fixed, thanks.

cdr dye stability

Reply #10 –
Quote
Originally posted by Pio2001
I think it can only read ATIP from non-closed CDs. 

Hm, I think I have never read an ATIP from a closed CD before. Will test that soon.

cdr dye stability

Reply #11 –
Quote
search the forum sonny boy:
http://www.hydrogenaudio.org/forums/showth...=&threadid=2405

I tried to click on this link and it's dead....I want to find out which cdr media is best for life span(regardless of $$) - without starting any new topics(and making anyone mad). I did a search and this is the only link I got.  Any suggestions?


                                                    Thanks,
                                                          -Darin

:alien:
Cowon Iaudio X5 30 gig. It rocks!

cdr dye stability

Reply #12 –
taiyo yuden, mitsui or certain tdk branded disks are considered the best.

cdr dye stability

Reply #13 –
Not Mitsui for longevity. Some are reported dead.
Old Verbatim Metal Azo, and Tayo Yuden are seldom seen dead. In fact, I don't think any Tayo Yuden was ever reported dead. There was a false alarm not long ago, but it turned out to be the drive.
Gold CDRs last longer than silver ones for me. But two people reported gold CDRs dying.

Links in the FAQ

cdr dye stability

Reply #14 –
Quote
www.cdmediaworld.com

Regards;

Roberto.

The info you can see in that page is outdated so it's no longer reliable.

cdr dye stability

Reply #15 –
Quote
Not Mitsui for longevity. Some are reported dead.
Old Verbatim Metal Azo, and Tayo Yuden are seldom seen dead. In fact, I don't think any Tayo Yuden was ever reported dead. There was a false alarm not long ago, but it turned out to be the drive.
Gold CDRs last longer than silver ones for me. But two people reported gold CDRs dying.

I personally recommend Mitsui for reliability.  I have mitsui silvers (dark blue bottom) over 3 years old, very scratched, but no errors on about 50 disks.

And as for the gold cdr's..  Do you mean any disks with a gold bottom?  Virtually every gold Maxell I have has died..  Probably 75/100, though I haven't tested the other 25 they are probably dead as well (about 3 years old too)

cdr dye stability

Reply #16 –
Beware of TDKs made by CMC...
She is waiting in the air

cdr dye stability

Reply #17 –
Quote
I have mitsui silvers (dark blue bottom)


You must be mistaken, Mitsui should not have ever made any dark blue CDR, they created, patented, and manufacture the transparent pthalocyanine dye (light green/gold CDRs). Either your CDRs are light, either they are not Mitsui (maybe Mitsumi ?), either my world collapse under my feet.

Quote
And as for the gold cdr's..  Do you mean any disks with a gold bottom? 


No, only CDRs made of real gold. Intense yellow, like Kodak, Fnac Gold, current HiSpace gold, or dark green bottom, like old Fnac/ HiSpace gold. I've never seen any Mitsui gold in my life (Mitsui "gold", not "golden dye" (=silver)), but they should be made of gold too.
I don't know Maxell Gold.

cdr dye stability

Reply #18 –
Did you remember i mentioned a gold disc that developed a hole by itself? Look

ATIP:              97m 27s 55f
Disc Manufacturer: Mitsui Toatsu Chemicals, Inc.
Reflective layer:  Dye (Short strategy; e.g. Phthalocyanine)
Media type:        CD-Recordable
Recording Speeds:  min. unknown - max. unknown
nominal Capacity:  650.85MB (74m 05s 10f / LBA: 333235)

It is labelled "Verbatim" it was burned in 1995, the data around the hole is still readable, cd speed quality test follows (the hole appeared like 1 or 2 years after) it is the kind of disc without protective layer, maybe i or someone else scratched its top (my friends have that stupid bad habit of putting discs with the bottom side up over objects.. I have to always remind them, bottom scratches can be fixed (with sand paper) top scraches on CDR are unrecoverable.

One of these days i will have a scanner to scan the discs ^^! <-- In the meantime see video pics below

verbatim gold top
verbatim gold bottom

As i said, it looks gold on top, yellow in the bottom.

It has the word Verbatim and its logo all black, it has the "COMPACT disc" logo in the right (also in black) and the words "Multi-Speed CD r 74 Minute on the left. It has a part where you are supposed to write, four thick white lines of what it seems to be a little "protective layer", just below it says "use a felt tip pen only. Veuillez vous servir d'un feutre." The jewel case is black with white letters, except the Verbatim word and logo which is red. It says made in Japan. It contains english and french warnings.

cdspeed graph

Yes, the hole is right in the beginning. It is a data disc, i can see the files, seems c2 took care of it
She is waiting in the air

cdr dye stability

Reply #19 –
Quote
You must be mistaken, Mitsui should not have ever made any dark blue CDR, they created, patented, and manufacture the transparent pthalocyanine dye (light green/gold CDRs). Either your CDRs are light, either they are not Mitsui (maybe Mitsumi ?), either my world collapse under my feet.

You're right.  I checked again and they are very light green bottomed.  They are mitsui though, says in black print on the inner clear ring "Mitsui CD-R".  Regardless, they are great discs, but I never found more than the initial 50-pack 3 years ago...
 

cdr dye stability

Reply #20 –
What I know is that Verbatim(with AZO) used to be one of the best a few years back. Are they still the same quality? Also, I checked out the Tayo Yuden and Mitsui Cd-r's on a site and thier prices are really cheap(for the best discs). If these prices are so cheap, are you sure thier good? And I don't think they have the AZO layer(Wouldn't that be better than the other two chemicals?). Thier prices seem to be almost generic cheap(like .37 cents a disc). The Verbatim(with AZO) datalife plus actually costs more($app. 1.25), so since the Verbatim costs more than the Tayo Yuden and Mitsui doesn't that mean the Verbatim(with AZO) should be even better? I'm going to archive my music off my hard drive and clear it to get hard drive space, so it's important I get the best because it has to last a long time.

                                                                    Thanks,
                                                                      -Darin

:alien:
Cowon Iaudio X5 30 gig. It rocks!