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Topic: DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements (Read 11789 times) previous topic - next topic
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DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Well, back in the day (er, 2005 or so?) I fell victim to Head-fi, and bought a couple nice pairs of headphones (Grado SR-60, then a year or so later ER-4 IEMs, and a Meier portable amp for my iriver h300), and then another year or so later a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-880s). Well, I quit reading head-fi a couple years ago, probably for the same reasons as everyone else here. At that time, I didn't really use my computer for music much at all.

Since then, I've found myself using it more and more, and my h300 only for portable use. The integrated audio on my motherboard is not great - at least when using the ER-4s, it's almost unlistenable when listening to music with very quiet portions (a lot of classical, for example) due to the background hiss, as well as electromagnetic noise when scrolling pages, minimizing windows, and such. This is still noticeable with the DT 880s, although much less of a problem. As per TOS 8 I won't state that my motherboard sound is overall poor quality, though if I had the ability (and equipment) to do a proper ABX test I'm sure the results would confirm this.

So, on to my question. I would like to get a DAC for this PC. I also plan to get some speakers at some point, probably inexpensive bookshelf speakers with a cheap amp, because I won't use them as often as headphones. However, I'd like to run these from the DAC too. So I need something that takes either USB (or, preferably, since I have a few 96 KHz FLAC files and this would mean I could get more, S/PDIF) input, and has unamped output for an amp or receiver for use with speakers. It would be nice if it also had a built-in headphone amp, but if it's more cost-effective or would be better in terms of quality to get a separate headphone amp, I can do that too. It should also work with Linux (not an issue for S/PDIF, but it is for USB, because as far as I know Linux only outputs up to either 44.1 or 48 kHz over USB (although this may be based on old information, I haven't found anything refuting it)).

Now, I would like to keep this as cheap as possible. I've searched head-fi, but that place is really useless. Everyone has a conflicting opinion on every DAC over there, but they all seem to agree that if you can't afford to spend $1000 on your gear, you shouldn't be there. I've searched here quite a bit. There have been a lot of DACs recommended here, but few within my price range There are a few - it seems you can get a very good DAC for less than $100, but most of them (e.g. the Behringer U202) don't have a headphone amp or S/PDIF input, and/or their Linux compatibility is dubious, or something. I've seen recommended here a number of pieces of equipment that look good, but I'm not sure they meet the requirements (e.g. Behringer SRC2496 - also, that thing looks absolutely monstrous in pictures, I don't know that I even have room for it). I don't want to spend more than $200 for sure.

So, can anyone help me, or should I try to trim down this wall of text (yeah, I didn't really expect it to be that long, but I wanted to be as clear as possible)?

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #1
The hiss can probably be fixed with an attenuator, that's what I do with my Westone IEMs, which are very sensitive too. I don't get buzzing interference though, that might be more annoying and harder to fix.

If you don't mind a receiver, one with SPDIF inputs (pretty much all of them have it) will give you absolutely the most bang for buck, and give you multichannel too, if you need it in the future.

I don't think you need either a standalone DAC or a headphone amp at all.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #2
The hiss can probably be fixed with an attenuator, that's what I do with my Westone IEMs, which are very sensitive too. I don't get buzzing interference though, that might be more annoying and harder to fix.

If you don't mind a receiver, one with SPDIF inputs (pretty much all of them have it) will give you absolutely the most bang for buck, and give you multichannel too, if you need it in the future.

I don't think you need either a standalone DAC or a headphone amp at all.

You're quite right about a receiver being ideal - however, I don't need HDMI, 5.1/7.1 channel audio, etc., and most of the decent receivers seem to be edging the top of my price range as it is, so it seems that with just a DAC/amp I could get better value. If you (anyone) can recommend any receivers that are both relatively cheap and have a good headphone out, I'll certainly take a look. I have an old (early 1980s) Pioneer receiver that sounds fine with cheap speakers, but the headphone out is terrible (LOTS of hiss) and it only has one analog non-phono input (and no digital ones, obviously).

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #3
See if you can get a cheap SPDIF amp on ebay? But I'm sure there are new ones that are cheap which don't have 7.1 or HDMI. You can even get stereo ones from a quick look at Amazon.

The hiss is probably more due to the sensitivity of your IEMs than of the headphone output itself. I have a last year Pioneer Elite receiver and his is still noticeable with very sensitive IEMs like the Westone UM2. Try an attenuator. I have the one that used to come with the Ultimate Ears IEMs, and they work great.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #4
See if you can get a cheap SPDIF amp on ebay? But I'm sure there are new ones that are cheap which don't have 7.1 or HDMI. You can even get stereo ones from a quick look at Amazon.

The hiss is probably more due to the sensitivity of your IEMs than of the headphone output itself. I have a last year Pioneer Elite receiver and his is still noticeable with very sensitive IEMs like the Westone UM2. Try an attenuator. I have the one that used to come with the Ultimate Ears IEMs, and they work great.

I haven't even tried the IEMs with the Pioneer receiver (it's an SX-6). The hiss was so bad with the DT880s that there'd be no point.

I don't want to buy just any receiver, anyway, and there aren't many reviews that mention the quality of the headphone output. In addition, none of the stereo receivers that were in my price range had the requisite digital inputs, or had any specifications as to the DAC. It just seems like they're either too expensive and have a lot more features than I want or need, or they fit into my price range, but don't do enough - that's why I wanted a standalone DAC/amp in the first place.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #5
If the objection to a receiver is just price and tech overkill: I got a Pioneer receiver on close-out at a very good price (NZ$200, which at the time was like US$130) precisely because it did NOT have HDMI and all the HiDef goodness. So close-outs and specials might be good for you.

If there are other reasons for not wanting a receiver, pardon my irrelevance, pls.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #6
If the objection to a receiver is just price and tech overkill: I got a Pioneer receiver on close-out at a very good price (NZ$200, which at the time was like US$130) precisely because it did NOT have HDMI and all the HiDef goodness. So close-outs and specials might be good for you.

If there are other reasons for not wanting a receiver, pardon my irrelevance, pls.

It's partly that, and partly the idea that receivers don't always have the best headphone outputs - this may or may not be accurate, but I don't have any way to tell, since reviews don't usually mention it. Plus they don't support 24-bit/96 kHz audio, but reading the recent thread on audible differences between that and 16-bit/44.1 kHz makes me feel a bit better about that. Still would be nice, if only for the pleasure of seeing that "96 kHz" on the display.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #7
if you need something with low price, at least here in europe Musikhaus Thomann is quite good at delivering low prices. These devices should have headphone amp, but my google-fu failed me and I couldn't find a single RMAA chart. I haven't even listened to these devices, so cannot say anything about the sound quality. If I didn't have my current headphone amp, I would buy one of these. Low price, so little to lose.  Not so sure about the linux support though.

Swissonic Easy USB
http://www.thomann.de/gb/swissonic_easy_usb.htm
24 Bit / 96 kHz Audio interface
29€

http://www.thomann.de/gb/swissonic_easy_firewire.htm
24 Bit / 96 kHz Audio interface
29€
Hevay is The Way!

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #8
Looks nice - unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be easily available outside Europe.

edit: at least the firewire one does seem to have Linux support.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #9
(Apologies if this is considered double-posting - I read TOS 6 as referring to cross-posting in multiple sections rather than making two successive posts in the same thread. If not, I apologize - won't happen again.)

One thing I read on Head-fi seems to make sense to me, but I don't know whether there's any real basis for it: that a portable DAC or amp at a particular price point will perform more poorly than a non-portable one at the same price point, unless one or the other is particularly poorly implemented (or overpriced). Is this true (does anyone have any actual evidence for this)? It seems intuitively true by analogy with other types of technology, but not knowing much about the hardware side of audio reproduction I could be wrong.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #10
Well, back in the day (er, 2005 or so?) I fell victim to Head-fi, and bought a couple nice pairs of headphones (Grado SR-60, then a year or so later ER-4 IEMs, and a Meier portable amp for my iriver h300), and then another year or so later a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-880s). Well, I quit reading head-fi a couple years ago, probably for the same reasons as everyone else here. At that time, I didn't really use my computer for music much at all.

Since then, I've found myself using it more and more, and my h300 only for portable use. The integrated audio on my motherboard is not great - at least when using the ER-4s, it's almost unlistenable when listening to music with very quiet portions (a lot of classical, for example) due to the background hiss, as well as electromagnetic noise when scrolling pages, minimizing windows, and such. This is still noticeable with the DT 880s, although much less of a problem. As per TOS 8 I won't state that my motherboard sound is overall poor quality, though if I had the ability (and equipment) to do a proper ABX test I'm sure the results would confirm this.

So, on to my question. I would like to get a DAC for this PC. I also plan to get some speakers at some point, probably inexpensive bookshelf speakers with a cheap amp, because I won't use them as often as headphones. However, I'd like to run these from the DAC too. So I need something that takes either USB (or, preferably, since I have a few 96 KHz FLAC files and this would mean I could get more, S/PDIF) input, and has unamped output for an amp or receiver for use with speakers. It would be nice if it also had a built-in headphone amp, but if it's more cost-effective or would be better in terms of quality to get a separate headphone amp, I can do that too. It should also work with Linux (not an issue for S/PDIF, but it is for USB, because as far as I know Linux only outputs up to either 44.1 or 48 kHz over USB (although this may be based on old information, I haven't found anything refuting it)).

Now, I would like to keep this as cheap as possible. I've searched head-fi, but that place is really useless. Everyone has a conflicting opinion on every DAC over there, but they all seem to agree that if you can't afford to spend $1000 on your gear, you shouldn't be there. I've searched here quite a bit. There have been a lot of DACs recommended here, but few within my price range There are a few - it seems you can get a very good DAC for less than $100, but most of them (e.g. the Behringer U202) don't have a headphone amp or S/PDIF input, and/or their Linux compatibility is dubious, or something. I've seen recommended here a number of pieces of equipment that look good, but I'm not sure they meet the requirements (e.g. Behringer SRC2496 - also, that thing looks absolutely monstrous in pictures, I don't know that I even have room for it). I don't want to spend more than $200 for sure.

So, can anyone help me, or should I try to trim down this wall of text (yeah, I didn't really expect it to be that long, but I wanted to be as clear as possible)?


To me the easiest  answer is pretty clear. Obtain a nice USB external audio interface with a decent built in headphone jack. Add an outboard headphone amp such as a Fiio E5 if necessary.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #11
One thing I read on Head-fi seems to make sense to me, but I don't know whether there's any real basis for it: that a portable DAC or amp at a particular price point will perform more poorly than a non-portable one at the same price point, unless one or the other is particularly poorly implemented (or overpriced).


This is not true.  DACs have reached the point where it's quite easy and inexpensive to get a sonically transparent DAC.  The main difference between many portable and desktop DACs is that many portable ones can only do 16bit/44khz whereas desktop ones can do 24bit/96khz or 24bit/192khz.  Of course, if you are listening to CDs this does not matter.  A lot of what is intuitive in other technology areas (e.g. Laptops vs Desktops at the same price) is simply not true in audio because the bottom end stuff is really good and the "high-end" stuff is only high end in price.

As for the quality of motherboard outputs being bad, I think you'd be surprised in a blind test.  The main problem is electrical noise.  I have done volume matched testing between my motherboard out and "better" gear.  With the exception of electrical noise, current onboard sound solutions are very good!

As far as dealing with electrical noise, I've found that even an basic amp can help.  I typically plug my headphones (I have a DT880 as well) into my motherboard out.  But IEMS (especially Westones) are too noisy when I do this.  So I have a CMOY and this quiets the noise enough that I can use my IEMs (not the Westones UM3X though).

A Fiio might do this as well but the Fiio my start clipping/distoring with the 250 ohm DT880.

Honestly speaking, I think the asking price for separate DACs and headphone amps is too high.  One you cross the really inexpensive stuff (UA202 + Fiio) it's almost like you have to spend $200 - $300 to get a nice DAC+AMP combo.  If you are willing to spend that much I think the Echo Audiofire 4 would work.  Speaking purely in terms of sonics for listening, I doubt it's worth the cost over using some inexpensive setup to address your onboard's sound electrical noise. 

You could also think about an internal sound card like the Asus Xonar Essence or HT Omega Claro.  Both of these should be silent with your IEMs and they have a special headphone amp circuit.

There are some portable DAC+AMP combos for under $200 but I'm reluctant to post them in fear that somebody might assume I'm actually recommending these "audiophile" products

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #12
This is all interesting - I'd be fine with something relatively inexpensive, provided that it can handle both my 250Ω DT880 and my Etymotic ER-4s (not sure of the impedance, but it's <100Ω) as well as my 32Ω SR-60s occasionally. I guess this requires a gain switch, but it often seems that only higher-end stuff has that.

If this were just for my PC I'd be fine with an internal card, but I wanted something with S/PDIF input so I could use it with other devices if necessary (not that I have any of those right now except a DVD player, but that could change). In general I want something with a decent number of features (I'm not into the continuous upgrading thing like the Head-fi guys are), but not the overly-expensive "audiophile" stuff necessarily - which leaves me with "pro" type equipment like the Behringer SRC2496 or E-MU 0404 (which apparently only does better than 44.1 kHz with a special Windows-only driver). (While I'd mostly be listening to CD-quality stuff I do have some 96 KHz FLACs and I'd like to at least see if I can hear the difference - if I can't, I guess I could always exchange it for one of the cheaper/portable units.)

So I guess I'm just asking if anyone knows anything reputable in this range, that will sound good with the DT880s particularly (since there seems to be issues with some portable amps in terms of the gain or whatever).

Thanks for all the responses!

edit- I tried an old Sound Blaster Live card I had gathering dust - it may not be representative of modern hardware, but it still has noise issues...

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #13
One thing I read on Head-fi seems to make sense to me, but I don't know whether there's any real basis for it: that a portable DAC or amp at a particular price point will perform more poorly than a non-portable one at the same price point, unless one or the other is particularly poorly implemented (or overpriced).


This is not true.  DACs have reached the point where it's quite easy and inexpensive to get a sonically transparent DAC.  The main difference between many portable and desktop DACs is that many portable ones can only do 16bit/44khz whereas desktop ones can do 24bit/96khz or 24bit/192khz.  Of course, if you are listening to CDs this does not matter.  A lot of what is intuitive in other technology areas (e.g. Laptops vs Desktops at the same price) is simply not true in audio because the bottom end stuff is really good and the "high-end" stuff is only high end in price.

As for the quality of motherboard outputs being bad, I think you'd be surprised in a blind test.  The main problem is electrical noise.  I have done volume matched testing between my motherboard out and "better" gear.  With the exception of electrical noise, current onboard sound solutions are very good!

As far as dealing with electrical noise, I've found that even an basic amp can help.  I typically plug my headphones (I have a DT880 as well) into my motherboard out.  But IEMS (especially Westones) are too noisy when I do this.  So I have a CMOY and this quiets the noise enough that I can use my IEMs (not the Westones UM3X though).

A Fiio might do this as well but the Fiio my start clipping/distoring with the 250 ohm DT880.

Honestly speaking, I think the asking price for separate DACs and headphone amps is too high.  One you cross the really inexpensive stuff (UA202 + Fiio) it's almost like you have to spend $200 - $300 to get a nice DAC+AMP combo.  If you are willing to spend that much I think the Echo Audiofire 4 would work.  Speaking purely in terms of sonics for listening, I doubt it's worth the cost over using some inexpensive setup to address your onboard's sound electrical noise. 

You could also think about an internal sound card like the Asus Xonar Essence or HT Omega Claro.  Both of these should be silent with your IEMs and they have a special headphone amp circuit.

There are some portable DAC+AMP combos for under $200 but I'm reluctant to post them in fear that somebody might assume I'm actually recommending these "audiophile" products


Sorry to hijack the OP's post, but this intrigues me as well.

I fell victim to head-fi as well, and now have an external DAC and amp, but when compared to my line out, i don't notice very much of a difference -- and that's without a blind test. My headphones however, are only k240 sextetts so I always thought that was one of the primary reasons, but the rest of my setup i believe is still overkill, after selling of some of my slighlty higher end stuff.

I feel like I'm better of selling some of most of it, but I have no idea how it compares to what's within a reasonable range, and real, not the nonsense spewed on head-fi most of the time.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #14
Don't worry about hijacking. This is another thing - I don't have a line out on the motherboard, so if I got just an amp I'd be double-amping, which is considered bad on head-fi (not to mention yet another volume control to contend with). Another reason why I want a separate DAC/amp, so as to just have one volume control.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #15
My headphones however, are only k240 sextetts so I always thought that was one of the primary reasons, but the rest of my setup i believe is still overkill, after selling of some of my slighlty higher end stuff.


This idea that certain headphones are more revealing of differences between equipment has little basis in well controlled tests.  It is true to a certain degree (e.g. compare a $10 earbud with a well designed $250 headphone), but past a certain point people start attributing magical properties to "High End (read, high priced)" headphones.

However, unlike Etymotic IEMs, high impedance low sensitivity headphones (like the K240 Sextetts) do not reveal how much  electrical noise is coming out of your other hardware.  In all other regards the K240 line(Sextett, K240DF, K240M) is more than capable of revealing your other equipment.  Volume matched blind tests show little evidence to support all these claimed audible differences between equipment so you make the judgement as to if you cannot hear a difference because you are using the K240  Sextett.

tom` - what's your intended budget?  I can probably point you towards something if you give an exact budget.

As for the idea that double amping is bad - where did you read that again

Remember, a lot of people don't even realize that most everything has an amplified out so they're not all that qualified to make claims about if doubling amping is bad or not.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #16
tom` - what's your intended budget?  I can probably point you towards something if you give an exact budget.

As for the idea that double amping is bad - where did you read that again

Remember, a lot of people don't even realize that most everything has an amplified out so they're not all that qualified to make claims about if doubling amping is bad or not.

Hard to nail down a number, because even if I could get something okay for $50, I might go for something good at $150 just for the peace of mind, even if the auditory differences are minimal - the idea that "this will allow my equipment to perform to the highest reasonable standard" is worth something to me, in other words. Other than that, $200 would probably be an upper limit (and I get the idea around here that that will get me some very capable equipment, unlike head-fi, where that's barely entry-level).

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #17
resistor attenuators work well with some earphones, but with others, affect the output really poorly. examples of the latter (which attenuate treble) are balanced armature earphones. small dynamic earphones are very good though.

And don't worry about double-amping - that is a headfi myth. headfiers usually have about as much experience as it takes to register a nickname. I would doubt than even 2% of them could tell the difference between a line out amp and a headphone amp. There are differences, but they are hardly problematic in most cases. Some line outs are actually worse than the headphone out (Cowon X5) for example.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #18
resistor attenuators work well with some earphones, but with others, affect the output really poorly. examples of the latter (which attenuate treble) are balanced armature earphones. small dynamic earphones are very good though.

And don't worry about double-amping - that is a headfi myth. headfiers usually have about as much experience as it takes to register a nickname. I would doubt than even 2% of them could tell the difference between a line out amp and a headphone amp. There are differences, but they are hardly problematic in most cases. Some line outs are actually worse than the headphone out (Cowon X5) for example.

well, wouldn't (say) plugging an amp straight into my motherboard output just amplify the noise?

Also, does anyone know a good place to search for hardware/reviews? If not head-fi, then where?

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #19
Quote
well, wouldn't (say) plugging an amp straight into my motherboard output just amplify the noise?
Yes, but...  The noise from your headphone (or line) output tends to be constant (or there is a constant component).  When you listen at low levels, the low signal level gives you a poor signal-to-noise ratio.

If you tack-on a low-noise amp (with it's own volume control) you can drive the computer's headphone output harder which gives you a better signal-to-noise ratio. The headphone amp can actually work as an attenuator which will attenuate the noise!  Because the impedance matching is better, an amp used as an "active attenuator", can be better than a passive attenuator.

Under "best case" conditions, two amps in series are worse than one...  Every amplifier adds some noise & distortion...  In real-world situations the opposite can be true!

The main difference between a headphone output and line output is impedance.  The headphone is capable of driving a much lower impedance load and usually has slightly more gain & higher output voltage.    There is a general relationship between gain & noise, but the quality from a headphone output (to a line-input) isn't necessairly worse than a line-output.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #20
Also, does anyone know a good place to search for hardware/reviews? If not head-fi, then where?


I think you should define "review."  If you mean one of those places where people talk about the sound of an amp, the reviews are typically rubbish since people test in sighted tests without matching volumes.  In my opinion you'd be much better off trying to find an amp in your price range with a) a low output impedance (very important!) and b) enough of a voltage swing or current capacity to drive your headphones without distortion/clipping, etc.  Personally, I've found that even a 9V CMOY can do this so it isn't that hard.

As far as getting "peace of mind" - I suggest you define this before you buy.  A lot of people looking for peace of mind have found themselves falling towards $1000+ amps and DACs because they always wonder if these "High End (read High priced)" devices sound better since all of the equipment evaluations are done in highly uncontrolled tests.

So finally, some equipment recommendations.

First, I recommend going the pro audio route.  The EMU 0202 has a nice price.  It also has a headphone out but I don't have any experience with it.  I know some members of HydrogenAudio (e.g. Arnold Kreuger) so maybe they can chime in about the distortion, clipping, noise with IEMs, etc.

If the headphone out of that is not good enough you could always add an amp.  A Fiio E5, Boostaroo, or  PA2V2.  I don't have any experience with these so you'd have to find somebody to comment on the electrical noise.  The person who makes the PA2V2 is very nice (and honest!) so you could ask him about noise with IEMs

I don't know if a 3V supply is enough to drive the DT880.  A member of this site (rpp3p0?) has stated the PA2V2 could drive  his HD650 (HD600?) so it would work. If you want something with a higher voltage swing try the Mini 3 (I talk about it next).

Personally, I like eqiupment from AMB Labs.  In particular, I recommend the Y1 DAC and the Mini 3 Amp.  These are DIY amps, but you could get one of the builders listed on that site to build it for you.

If you want to go the commercial amp route I like stuff from Firestone Audio. The world of headphone equipment is filled with really expensive and, in my opinion, not worth the cost.  In comparison the Firestone Audio stuff is quite sanely priced.  Let me just state that I probably wouldn't buy most stuff from Firestone because of price.  Also, testing by shigzeo indicates the Fireye series has a higher than 0 output impedance and may not be ideal for multi-BA IEMs.

Another nice portable DAC+amp is the Total Bithead.  There is even a review of it with the Etymotics on Dan's Data.  However it's just a 16bit/44khz device.

If I was going for the "peace of mind" approach I'd probably buy a pro audio DAC/ADC (e.g. Echo Audiofire 4) and get a Mini 3 amp if I found an external amp was needed.  That way I'd have a way to test equipment as well.

Hope this helps.

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #21
That's a great post, I'll have to work through it bit by bit. 
The volume-matching thing is an excellent point, and I think that's the number-one obstacle for proper ABX tests.

The EMU 0202 looks nice (I'd looked at the 0404 in the past), but both have the same issue in my case - they only have very basic driver support in Linux (i. e., you can use them as a sound device at 44.1/48 KHz, but beyond that I don't think much is supported).

The PA2V2 and Total Bithead have both been considered by me in the past, but I'm not sure about the quality of the PA2V2 based on head-fi posts (I know, I should probably just disregard that), and the Total Bithead has always struck me as a bit expensive for what it does (since you can get audio interfaces that do 192 KHz and have input and output (that I'll probably never use, but still) for close to the same price), and also, it doesn't have an unamped output, and I want to get some decent speakers at some point, so I wanted a DAC with a line out.

I'll take a look at the rest of your suggestions when I get a bit of sleep - lots of good stuff there!

 

DAC/amp needed - somewhat specific requirements

Reply #22
The volume-matching thing is an excellent point, and I think that's the number-one obstacle for proper ABX tests.


Volume matching is quite easy to do with a multimeter.  The whole "blind" part of of ABX is the difficult part.

Quote
The EMU 0202 looks nice (I'd looked at the 0404 in the past), but both have the same issue in my case - they only have very basic driver support in Linux (i. e., you can use them as a sound device at 44.1/48 KHz, but beyond that I don't think much is supported).


As long as you use spdif the 0404 can be used quite easily in Linux.  You just have to have Windows running somewhere (e.g. VirtualBox) to set the sample rate and then set Linux to output via spdif.  I've found linux audio to be quite a pain and it was one of the major reasons I ditched Linux (Kubuntu) and started using Windows again.  Echo Digital seems to have been quite helpful to the Linux community and apparently their interfaces work via firewire in Linux.

Quote
The Total Bithead has always struck me as a bit expensive for what it does (since you can get audio interfaces that do 192 KHz and have input and output (that I'll probably never use, but still) for close to the same price), and also, it doesn't have an unamped output...


IMHO most of this type of audio equipment is overpriced for what you get.  A lot of time you are paying for things because they are hand built with parts that are selected for marketing reasons (e.g. audiophile caps).  So you are paying a lot for exclusivity, luxury, small boutique manufacturers, or whatever else is associated with these products.  Let's not forget all the "objective" reviews on the various audio sites supporting these products and their prices.

On a different note, here is another company (I have NEVER tried any of their products) that has a wide variety of DAC+amp combos - Ibasso.  They even have something that can become a standalone DAC.

And just to be clear, I'm not recommending products from Firestone Audio or IBasso.  I think these are way too expensive for what you get.  I'm just pointing out that stuff like this exists.