May you please tell me the name of the Vinyl Click Removal tool? Is it free or do I have to pay for it? I can install it in my friend's PC (which is Windows) and try to remove clicks.I have two. Wave Corrector is FREE and fully automatic. I don't have much experience with it because I digitized most of my vinyl (that wasn't available digitally) before I got it.
@ApacheReal
> The version posted by @yeyo in the web view thread is the best ever.
> I hope to post future updates, in particular the internal image management currently manages the images in the folder they belong to.
Yes I know, I tested it.
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> I also saw other interesting things here:
> https://www.esnpc.com/foorab-for-foobar2000-theme/
Thank you for the information.
You have a lot of information.
Very nice skin. How to download it?
On 118pan.com :
https://www.118pan.com/wap.php?action=space&folder_id=21311
The installation is done in Chinese!
@ApacheReal
> The version posted by @yeyo in the web view thread is the best ever.
> I hope to post future updates, in particular the internal image management currently manages the images in the folder they belong to.
Yes I know, I tested it.
------
> I also saw other interesting things here:
> https://www.esnpc.com/foorab-for-foobar2000-theme/
Thank you for the information.
You have a lot of information.
Very nice skin. How to download it?
I was thinking of ripping it from Vinyl and later on trying to remaster the recording to have a better sounding experience.You'll never get a "better sounding experience" from vinyl. Yes, you can hide the clicks and filter out the hiss and rumble, but ultimately you are limited by the transfer function from the master tape through pre-emphasis to the cutter to the press to the vinyl and then your stylus, cartridge, and de-emphasis. It's only ever worth it if a CD copy or download is unobtainable.Do you suggest me to go 24/44 or 16/44? I read somewhere that 24/44 would be better to reduce noise and then convert it to 16/44.It's not going to make one spit of difference. Just use whatever the USB sends you. Any kind of resampling will reduce quality (in theory – although in practice you won't notice).Also 1 more additional question: when ripping from Vinyl in STEREO, should I expect a difference between L & R channels, or since I am recording from analog to digital both channels should be very similar in terms of frequencies?I fail to see any relevance to this.
Quoteand later on trying to remaster the recording to have a better sounding experience...There is special software for removing vinyl clicks & pops but I'm on Windows so I can't suggest anything.
...should I apply any noise removal or other effect or export it straightforward?
Audacity has 4 tools ("effects"):
- Regular Noise Reduction uses a "fingerprint" of noise-only and it's for reducing constant background noise (like bum or hiss). If the noise is bad, "the cure can be worse than the disease" so you'll have to try it.
- Click Removal is automatic.
- Repair is manual. You have to find and zoom-in on the defect.
- You can also zoom-in and manually re-draw the waveform.
I find a lot of older records to be a bit "dull sounding" (rolled-off highs). So, I'll often use a little EQ to boost the highs.
When you're done you can run the Amplify or Normalize effect to "maximize" for 0dB (or near 0dB) peaks.QuoteWhen I say settings, I was referring to Sample Rate & Bit Depth...We think the analog-to-digital converter in your turntable is 16-bits, and that's generally better than human hearing and way better than vinyl. You don't magically improve quality by up-sampling. It would be like copying DVD or VHS to Blu-Ray.
...Do you suggest me to go 24/44 or 16/44?
By default, Audacity converts everything to 32-bit floating point which is better/easier for processing. You can export to whatever format you want.Quote...I read somewhere that 24/44 was suggested in order to reduce noise.The "real noise" comes from the analog record.
There is something called quantization noise and it's worse at lower bit-depths. But under normal listening conditions you can't hear it at 16-bits or higher. You CAN hear it at 8-bits.QuoteShould I set any of those to Dither or should I set Dither as None?As a practical matter it won't make any difference.
You're "supposed to dither" when you down-sample. You're not down-sampling so you can set it to 'none".
Dither is added noise that's supposed to sound better than quantization noise, but you can't normally hear either one (at 16-bits or higher). And you already have analog record noise that's worse so it's "self dithered" and it doesn't make sense to add a tiny-bit more noise.QuoteI am planning to export in WAV format.The possible downside to WAV is that metadata/tags (embedded album/artist/title/artwork, etc.) is not well-standardized for WAV. All of the other popular formats are better for metadata. If you want lossless, FLAC is lossless compression, it's better for metadata, and your files are almost half the size. But of course, you player needs to support FLAC (not a problem if you are using a software player on your computer). Apple ALAC is also lossless compression.Quoteshould I expect a difference between L & R channels, or since I am recording from analog to digital both channels should be very similar in terms of frequencies?Yes, left & right are different. Assuming music - Usually the main vocals (and the bass) are in the "phantom center" (identical in both channels). The other sounds are panned left-to-right across the virtual soundstage to simulate/approximate the arrangement of the band/orchestra.