http://www.omigaaudio.co.uk/Services.htm (http://www.omigaaudio.co.uk/Services.htm)
http://www.omigaaudio.co.uk/CCfaq.htm (http://www.omigaaudio.co.uk/CCfaq.htm)
Cooking cables... I think I'll have one for Thanksgiving dinner, served with gravy on top...
I cooked a cable once, but it melted
The last bit is obscene:
Will cables revert back over time requiring a second burn in, or are the results permanent?
Unless cabling is completely disconnected for a long period of time, we don't think they "completely" revert back to their original, raw state. However, in our experience, break-in is a long-term, but not permanent phenomenon. Cabling seems to benefit (as does one's system) with a periodic "recharge" of 12--24 hours, every few months. Many Cooker owners have been doing this every 3 or 4 months, and we recommend it as well. This makes the Cable Cooker a better long-term value. Using the Cooker is not a "one-shot" premise or exercise.Will cables revert back over time requiring a second burn in, or are the results permanent?
gday..
well..
not so crazy.. i have used a other method for years..
similar to these ppl. i use to runn 220v thrue them..
and then use a blowtorch on them.. this melts out the crystals
in the copper..and the resoult is a much faster handling/transfer
.- better freq. respons.. and lower the force.
(ps. i do my own cables.. so naturaly.. this is before any kind of
isolation..)
"lower the force"... LOL!
Yet another moneymaking idea I should have come up with first. Damn!
The patent could be titled: "Method of extracting money from susceptable audiophiles."
I'm not a cable expert, but from what I've learned so far...this smells like a load of bunk if you ask me. (It also smells like burning plastic. ) People will buy a*n*y*t*h*i*n*g.
So what's next? "Cable lubricant"?
"...makes the music slip more easily down the wire, hitting your headphones or speakers harder and producing a fuller, richer and more enveloping sound" Does longer conditioning time mean better performance? Can I over-Cook my cables? Will they be damaged?
Over-Cooking can reduce the performance, at least temporarily. The characteristics of this are a reduced or diminished soundstage and a dull, lifeless quality to the music. If this situation occurs, merely letting the cables physically rest, and settle, then putting them back in the music system to play for a few hours brings them back to their optimal performance level.
...because you know cables have feelings, too. As do other audio components. I made my headphones angry the other day. We talked, but they still haven't forgiven me yet. Out of spite, they sound cold and distant and uncaring. Maybe if I buy them a nice gift everything will be OK. They keep asking for Cardas, but I said "No! Maybe some nice cable lubricant, instead?"
Will cables revert back over time requiring a second burn in, or are the results permanent?
Unless cabling is completely disconnected for a long period of time, we don't think they "completely" revert back to their original, raw state.
Cables start off "raw"? So does this mean there are settings on the device for "rare", "medium-rare", "medium", "well-done" or "cajun-charred"? And if I use the "cajun-charred" setting, will my music sound warmer and more spicy?
But seriously, if someone could just ABX the effects of cable "burn-in", maybe this device would have some justification and respect. Until then, it's just another way for an "audiophile" to blow their money.
But seriously, if someone could just ABX the effects of cable "burn-in", maybe this device would have some justification and respect. Until then, it's just another way for an "audiophile" to blow their money.
I'm not an expert on cables either, but doubt it would be worth the trouble. Why would electrons passing through a cable have any permanent effect on the conductive material (ahem... OK, semi-permanent *cough*)? It sounds not only unlikely, but impossible. Maybe someone with a background in physics could verify that.
If you dont get anything out of this, you are dead...
A Mk II Liberator was also submitted for evaluation. This cable again didn't seem as ultimately detailed in the upper registers as the reference cables, or even the other 2 cables from Omiga Audio, but it had yet more lower-mid bass emphasis and tracking ability than its family relations. Also, it had a somewhat uneven top end balance, a suck out in the mid treble and picking up again for the final upper reaches, so yes there was the trailing end of the air, reverb and space, but upper harmonics of upper range instruments were a bit curtailed. These cables were left plugged into equipment which was left powered up over night and for a whole day before serious listening, so not sure if the cable would have benefited from another day of "settling in". I did find that the Mk I Liberators certainly becoming noticeably more open sounding over a 2 day settling in period, even though they had already been burnt in on a cable cooker. All cables made by Omiga Audio receive burn-in on a "Cable Cooker" prior to dispatch incidentally.
Hmm, they are only about 10 miles away from me as well.
Right, guys, I'm not going to talk about it anymore. I
am going to come up with some product and hilarity filled website that will supply me with enough beer money for a life time..... Cable Lubricant is one possiblity...
Right, guys, I'm not going to talk about it anymore. I am going to come up with some product and hilarity filled website that will supply me with enough beer money for a life time..... Cable Lubricant is one possiblity...
If serious, you better pick up on all the 'lingo' first and really study these sites to see how they build their mythologies. The ability to (verbally) keep a straight face would be necessary, among other things...
Edit -- and of course, we get to flame you here on HA if you do this... a new rule in the Terms of Service, just for you...
Right, guys, I'm not going to talk about it anymore. I am going to come up with some product and hilarity filled website that will supply me with enough beer money for a life time..... Cable Lubricant is one possiblity...
OK, you can have the "cable lubricant" idea. But I want 5% of your revenues since I thought up the marketing line, which undoubtedly would convince thousands to buy it.
Actually, I understand the concept of "break-in" for headphones. I won't believe it until I see proof that it's real and significant, but the
concept of moving parts benefiting from a break-in period makes sense to me. (Still doesn't mean I believe it is relevant for headphones or speakers until someone can convince me otherwise.)
But can someone explain to me (as fewtch asked, also) how "burning-in" a cable would work? It's a wire. There are no moving parts. Does the cable
expand to a different gauge with more use? Does it attain a different resistance level? Does it become measurably more efficient?
Barring corrosion, bad end-connectors, broken insulation/shielding, or other obvious defects,
how can the number of electrons that have traversed a cable possibly affect what it does?Edit...The ability to (verbally) keep a straight face would be necessary, among other things...
There is where I would fail. That's why Lev has to run the Cable Lubricant Corporation...I can only sit in a back room thinking up marketing slogans...and laughing hysterically...
Lev, I've GOT an idea that will help you reach your goal. Fewtch, we'll need your help with the audiophile terms.
Basically, what we need to do is convince audiophiles that their cables "wear out" much like a say a timing belt on a car. Running an AC signal through it will get electrons trapped between the copper fibers there is no way to get them dislodged, and after a year or two of heavy usage, there would be some serious audio degradation (but of course you wouldn't really notice it, since it happens over the course of months).
Our cables are better than that though. You can go years with our cables without having to worry about electrons getting trapped in your cables.
Also, we're working on a cable maintainer that will help to clean your cables, so you can extend the working life of your cables. Details on it are coming soon.
Lev, I've GOT an idea that will help you reach your goal. Fewtch, we'll need your help with the audiophile terms.
LOL... I could probably help some, although I still can't mentally connect a lot of the terminology used with specific sounds.
Making cables sounds like more of a PITA than it's worth... I like the cable lubricant idea better. Basically, the idea could be that a small amount sinks in through the cable jacket and makes the sound "more fluid" -- the music just flows better, overcoming "digital dryness" and making the sound "more analog-like."
There could be a dark colored oil to increase "blackness between the notes" or perhaps better bass... and a clear oil for those who want added "clarity and transparency." The simplest, most direct relationships between terms would probably be the most convincing, provided you were already convincing in the "technical" explanation of "why the product works."
Edit -- I guess the advantage to making/selling cables would be at least the ability to sleep at night, knowing you sold someone a functional product that actually does something (albeit at a ridiculous price).
Hmm ... they even try it with cars and sell magnets that will polarize or align your fule molecules to decrease fuel consumption at the same level of power
This is a crazy world we live in these days ... one can even sell crap that can be easily proven as being VooDoo stuff (like with these "fule magnets") ...
Hi,
I think that this process would involve removing all of the outer shell electrons from the "wire", placing them in a large pot and boiling them for about 25 minutes over a high heat. The electrons get extremely agitated about this and start jumping about in the pot.
The electrons have entered their "excited state".
As everyone knows, electrons don't like being excited for long so they will try to return to their "ground state".
Now, when electrons drop to the "ground state" they will liberate the energy they absorbed to become excited. Very often this energy occurs in the visible range of the spectrum so the electrons will begin to glow. At this juncture, get the pot of glowing electrons and pour them from the pot back into the wire through the ground side interconnect (there are electron filter funnels available for this process, but don't use any filter paper or the energy will be transferred to the paper and we all know the dangers of glowing filter paper).
Take care not to spill any of the glowing electrons on to the floor as they are extremely difficult to sweep up and electron sweeping brushes are expensive and few and far between.
There you go, no problem!!
DIY wire cooking!!
auldyin
By The Way ... the Eichmann plugs sold / used by them are great (from the electrical and mechanical point of view - not sounding any better, though) and not that expensive - it is a german product that I've once seen in a serious HiFi store in my town ...
Perhaps it might be worth giving it a try before completely rubbishing it? I'm not too sure myself how significant any changes would be, bit I wouldn't completely blank it without even trying it.
MO
Perhaps it might be worth giving it a try before completely rubbishing it? I'm not too sure myself how significant any changes would be, bit I wouldn't completely blank it without even trying it.
MO
You give it a try... at the prices they charge, you would have to be a little crazy. Please report back with your ABX test results...
Perhaps it might be worth giving it a try before completely rubbishing it? I'm not too sure myself how significant any changes would be, bit I wouldn't completely blank it without even trying it.
MO
You give it a try... at the prices they charge, you would have to be a little crazy. Please report back with your ABX test results...
I'm not the one dismissing it. If I was going to use it i'd hope to be able to get a deMO on some before and after cables.
I'm not the one dismissing it. If I was going to use it i'd hope to be able to get a deMO on some before and after cables.
The trouble is, one has to have a belief in "cable burn in" in the first place to even bother with it. Since the idea is ridiculous from here, I'd no more be inclined to try it than I would buy some "special" gloves at US $1000 that would supposedly let me flap my arms and fly... yeah sure, maybe I really would go soaring into the air, but wouldn't be inclined to spend the money to find out.
I'd no more be inclined to try it than I would buy some "special" gloves at US $1000 that would supposedly let me flap my arms and fly... yeah sure, maybe I really would go soaring into the air, but wouldn't be inclined to spend the money to find out.
Hey! Those gloves really work!
You just don't
believe in them enough.
I strapped the gloves on my infamous psychic chihuahua and he's currently cruising the upper troposphere, keeping us all safe from the evil Martian menace (http://www.penny-arcade.com/view.php3?date=2002-11-25&res=l)!
edited
Lev, I have another idea for your audiophile-ripping company. Cable calibration!
You know, if you use your cables for listening a particular kind of music for an extended period of time (16+ h non-stop or about 24 h with breaks), your cables will get 'bent into' that kind of music. What happens is that the microscopic copper structure of the cable after a while gets accustomed or "molds" to the frequency of the waves that pass through it. This has two primary consequences: First, the cables will get a little desensitized (like everything exposed to a constant stimulus) to some details of the music. This effect is quite subtle, only noticed by the finest of ears on a good audio equipment, but it is there. The other effect, a little more evident is that, if you switch to a different style of music, the sound will be negatively "coloured" by the cable, giving a different tone to that which was intended by the artist. This short-term "decalibration" of the cable can be solved on its own, by conducting a mix of different music styles for at least a time equal to the one that was exposed to the single type of music (or, for best results, twice as long) and then letting the cable rest for several hours. But who wants to let the cables calibrate on their own for a day without being able to use them as we please? And caution! This decalibration, if prolonged too much (120 h non-stop or about a week with breaks), can even be near-irreversible! But don't worry, at Levaudio Inc. we have the solution for all problems. Solve short-term decalibration by using our patented "Portable Cable Calibrator" (PCC) that emits an ultra-condensed multi-layer of frequencies of high intensity that calibrates your cables in less than an hour! Prevent decalibration by using our exclusive SilverCore cables, which are inherently resistant to decalibration thanks to its patterned-threading of its silver core. These are made in collaboration with the German technology of the hi-fi audio equipment company KartoffelTech Gmbh for top acoustics, shielding and performance! Pricey, but worth every cent! And what should you do if your cables are near-irreversibly decalibrated? Do not worry. We also provide a service of professional calibration for your cables. Using our high-performance omega-frequency calibrator we can get your cables in like-new condition in as few as two days! Do not let your cables be the weakest link of your hi-fi. Your ears deserve it. Levaudio
*phew* Time to sleep.
MO, you are never, ever going to convince people here that it works to be honest, and I have to say, I find the concept fairly outrageous myself. Thats no offence to Tony who offers the service, and power to him if people are going to take up use of the service. However, this is an objective audio site, unpolluted by popular hifi myths, and as such, I can see how such claims look on this site.
PS. Alreet fewtch
My God, I love this thread.
@MO! : I understand your position, but I've personally given at least one reason why the concept would have to be explained in some scientific detail first. After all, you have to
propose a theory before asking people to test it. They don't give anything beyond the typical mushy "warmer, richer sound" mumbo-jumbo that we've all heard so many times from "audiophiles" in places where more objective descriptions should be used. What I want to know, as stated before, and before I'll consider testing their idea myself, is
How can a variance in the number of electrons that traverse a cable possibly affect it's performance? You're right that an idea should not be discarded out-of-hand, but I, among others, just need a preliminary
technical/i] explanation of how cable "burn-in" can have any positive effect...without the words "warm", "full" and "rich" being used.
Lev, I have another idea for your audiophile-ripping company. Cable calibration!
You know, if you use your cables for listening a particular kind of music for an extended period of time (16+ h non-stop or about 24 h with breaks), your cables will get 'bent into' that kind of music.
Hmmm.....My headphone cable "likes" Pink Floyd, for instance, because it sounds good to me when the cable conducts "Floyd-sounds". But it isn't "calibrated" to reggae, among other genres. Whenever a reggae song comes on, it just doesn't sound right to me, almost like I don't prefer the music type. But instead, now I can blame "poor cable calibration" instead of my own tastes!
You may also want to add cryogenically treated cables to your catalog. Apparently, cryogenics are popular (http://www.cryopro.com/cn_quote.htm) these days.
You could also try doping cables with bromine or arsene gas in the presense of a high voltage negative field. Maybe you could pull off some of those precious few electrons to make more room for the ones that carry your music.
Personally, I believe that not coiling your cables would have more effect that any of this shit, but it's only audio frequencies.
mobius
MO, you are never, ever going to convince people here that it works to be honest, and I have to say, I find the concept fairly outrageous myself. Thats no offence to Tony who offers the service, and power to him if people are going to take up use of the service. However, this is an objective audio site, unpolluted by popular hifi myths, and as such, I can see how such claims look on this site.
PS. Alreet fewtch
Paul, i'm not trying to convince anyone. I just thought it odd that it was being rubbished without trying!
@MO! : I understand your position, but I've personally given at least one reason why the concept would have to be explained in some scientific detail first. After all, you have to propose a theory before asking people to test it. They don't give anything beyond the typical mushy "warmer, richer sound" mumbo-jumbo that we've all heard so many times from "audiophiles" in places where more objective descriptions should be used. What I want to know, as stated before, and before I'll consider testing their idea myself, is How can a variance in the number of electrons that traverse a cable possibly affect it's performance? You're right that an idea should not be discarded out-of-hand, but I, among others, just need a preliminary technical/i] explanation of how cable "burn-in" can have any positive effect...without the words "warm", "full" and "rich" being used.
I tend to use my ears for testing. Yes facts and figures can be useful (if you know what they mean ), but ultimately, these flappy things on the side of my head are my measuring tools.
I am not defending the burning thing here, i'm sceptical too. And i've laughed off a few things similar too. But without trying it, well it's a bit unfounded.
Well the fact that maufacturers say you should burn-in your cables should mean it has some effect??
Like this one
Q. DO AUDIOQUEST CABLES REQUIRE A BREAK-IN PERIOD?
A. Yes. In fact, all cables require a break-in period - even so-called "lampcord" cables that are often supplied with speakers. "Break in" is a
misnomer. What's really happening is that the insulation (or dielectric to give it its proper name) is being "formed". This "forming" is caused by
the dielectric absorbing energy from the conductor when a signal is present (i.e. when current is flowing). Every cable requires something to
separate the negative conductors from the positive conductors - a dielectric. However, because the dielectric is in direct contact with the
conductor, it will interact with the conductor whenever a current flows, absorbing energy from the conductor. What the dielectric does with that
energy once absorbed depends upon its quality. PVC releases the energy back into the conductor a split second later, causing a kind of
"smearing" of the signal. In contrast, Teflon absorbs significantly less energy in the first place, turns most of the energy into heat, and whatever
energy remains is released back into the conductor virtually instantaneously. This causes significantly less damage to the signal which is why -
all things being equal - a cable with Teflon insulation will sound better than the same cable using a lesser dielectric. This absorption of energy
causes the molecules in the dielectric to be rearranged from a random order into a uniform order. Once the molecules are fully rearranged, the
cable is said to be "broken in". The dielectric will now absorb less energy from the conductor, causing less harm, and improving performance. To
ensure that the cable stays "broken-in", there must be a signal present in the cable at all times. It's obviously not practical to have your system
playing 24 hours a day every day, but you can at least leave the components switched on. Even when there is no music playing (i.e. there is no
current flowing down the cable), there is a potential present. This will ensure that your cables (as well as your components) remain at the peak
of their performance. However - and this is the important bit - if there is no signal present in the cable at all (i.e. if the all the components are
switched off, or if the cable is disconnected), the molecules will rearrange themselves back into their random order. In other words, the cable is
almost like new again!
However, because the dielectric is in direct contact with the
conductor, it will interact with the conductor whenever a current flows, absorbing energy from the conductor.
Sounds like the biggest load of B.S. I've ever heard in my life.
How in the hell (pardon my language) is an insulating dielectric going to "absorb energy" from a conductor? What kind of "energy" are they talking about?
Rearranging molecules into uniform order? Leaving power on to the equipment to keep molecules from "randomizing" again?
Utter nonsense. Rubbish. One of those "I have to think hard to picture it, so it must be true" pseudoscientific explanations.
Sounds kinda like my "calibration" story, if you ask me. Only longer and with more "technical" jargon.
Sounds kinda like my "calibration" story, if you ask me. Only longer and with more "technical" jargon.
That "calibration" thing was pretty awesome... Someone could probably make some real bucks off that one...
I wonder if the cables can be overclocked as well?
I wonder if the cables can be overclocked as well?
Maybe if you futzed around with the hostclock for a digital cable connection you could overclock it, though it would not sound any better or make you enjoy your music more quickly
edit: for-> more, I must be cracking up finally
I'm going to be burying some cables in the walls at home for audio and video. I've been thinking really carefully about this, because I'll only do it the once. (I think my wife would kill me if I started cutting trenches in the walls after we've painted them - and I don't think I could face it again - once is bad enough!)
Anyway, I was trying to figure out whether I was going to buy anything better than the most basic cables (which meet the spec). The audio is fine - I use 2 core mains cable for the speakers, and it sounds great. For very long but unimportant line-level connections I use the cheapest phono cable I can find (and I can only fault it when I put a nail through it by accident!). For very short runs, I use good cable.
The problem was video. Even the cheapest video cable is £1/metre, and I want to run composite + component (4 video signals) over about 10 metres, and I want to put in some spares in case one gets damaged. So I was looking at £50 for just this cable (as part of a total re-wire of the house).
Just for fun, I tried my "cheapest I could fine" phono cable. I put composite video down one channel, and audio-left down the other channel. 10 metre length. Both emerged at the other end just fine - very well, in fact. I compared it to a direct connection (I was plugging the 10m onto the end of an existing cable) and couldn't see or hear any difference.
Now let's have a reality check here. Audio has a 20kHz bandwidth. Video has a 6MHz bandwidth. If you were to wreck the frequencies above 10kHz, the audio would sound dull. If you were to wreck the frequencies above 3MHz, the video would be monocrhome! If the video were to break through into the audio, it would be painfully obvious - 50Hz hum, and 15kHz line structure.
I didn't see or hear any of these problems. I'm willing to admit that there could have been subtle problems with the video that I missed. But there was no break through from video to audio (running in adjacent conductors!), and the bandwidth of the video was preserved very well in this audio cable.
Which makes me suspect that, whatever other problems may be present, when audio manufacturers say you must buy their expensive line-level cable to preserve the full frequency range of audio, or to prevent interference, they are talking absolute rubbish!
So, I'm going to try using the cheap audio cable for everything, and I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
David.
I'm going to be burying some cables in the walls at home for audio and video. I've been thinking really carefully about this, because I'll only do it the once. (I think my wife would kill me if I started cutting trenches in the walls after we've painted them - and I don't think I could face it again - once is bad enough!)
Why don't you burry cable duct (installation pipe, whatever it's called in English) in the walls so you can replace cables easily without becoming divorced?
For clarification - a picture of 'cable duct'
(http://www.elektrofachmarkt-online.de/images/medium/100503.jpg)
In case it doesn't work, here's the url (http://www.elektrofachmarkt-online.de/images/medium/100503.jpg) ('Leerrohr' in German).
I'm going to be burying some cables in the walls at home for audio and video. I've been thinking really carefully about this, because I'll only do it the once. (I think my wife would kill me if I started cutting trenches in the walls after we've painted them - and I don't think I could face it again - once is bad enough!)
Why don't you burry cable duct (installation pipe, whatever it's called in English) in the walls so you can replace cables easily without becoming divorced?
For clarification - a picture of 'cable duct'
(http://www.elektrofachmarkt-online.de/images/medium/100503.jpg)
In case it doesn't work, here's the url (http://www.elektrofachmarkt-online.de/images/medium/100503.jpg) ('Leerrohr' in German).
Is "cable duct" perhaps the same as "conduit" in English?
Yes, it is.
I don't want to do that. Too many corners, too much hassle. We'll have moved before it needs replacing!
Good idea though!
Cheers,
David.
Now let's have a reality check here. Audio has a 20kHz bandwidth. Video has a 6MHz bandwidth. If you were to wreck the frequencies above 10kHz, the audio would sound dull. If you were to wreck the frequencies above 3MHz, the video would be monocrhome! If the video were to break through into the audio, it would be painfully obvious - 50Hz hum, and 15kHz line structure.
I didn't see or hear any of these problems.
What, you didn't know you could get better sound and picture quality from one of these?
http://www.audionut.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=174 (http://www.audionut.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=174)
OMG!! I can't believe anyone can be stupid enough to buy something like that for $78!! That company is some serious ripoff... Look at the cryogenic treatment for CDs and DVDs! How is freezing CD supposed to help in any way???? Cryogenical treatment for cables... First they try to cook them and then freeze them... If only the money the moronic audiophiles spend on that crap went to charity...
OMG!! I can't believe anyone can be stupid enough to buy something like that for $78!! That company is some serious ripoff...
No kidding... somehow I got on their mailing list (dunno how, never bought anything from them) and I receive a brochure once every couple months that's good for a laugh or two...
The power outlet is especially dumb, considering you can't even see the gold plating and feel all warm/fuzzy once it's mounted inside the wall...
P.S. This catchphrase: "...the improvements are not subtle" has probably sold more liters of snake oil than any of the rest...
Well at least that line is honest. the improvements indeed aren't subtle. They are non-existent.
Look at the cryogenic treatment for CDs and DVDs! How is freezing CD supposed to help in any way????
It's a well-known fact that cryogenically frozen discs of polycarbonate are apt to make their owners fool themselves into believing they sound better!
Especially if they had to pay to get it done.
The question is: what kind of justification could possibly convince someone that a CD will become "better" after being subjected to ultra-low temperatures?
Are the low temperatures making the aluminum data layer become more accurate to the source? LOL.
Luckily, these folks don't seem to even offer an explanation, they just assume you'll think it's better and charge you $5.00 for the favor.
Here's another "cute" one:
http://www.audionut.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=197 (http://www.audionut.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=197)
Achieve "a more transparent electrical power" by "avoiding filtration." This 6-outlet, $299.99 "AC distribution center" for the "audio/video purist" is most assuredly and undoubtedly...
exactly the same thing as a $4.95 power strip at the local hardware store (except for the cute looks and 'audiophile panache').
The question is: what kind of justification could possibly convince someone that a CD will become "better" after being subjected to ultra-low temperatures?
Are the low temperatures making the aluminum data layer become more accurate to the source? LOL.
Dunno, but after the cryogenic treatment you may want to apply a healing salve to the CDs for deep moisturizing, conditioning and rejuvenation after coming in out of the cold... ahh, the refreshment! http://www.audionut.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=142 (http://www.audionut.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=142)
"This allows the CD or DVD player to receive more of the information that is on the disk..."
This site is just too entertaining... I'd love to know who writes the copy for their website, they could have a career as a sci-fi/fantasy author...
Perhaps they do know their products aren't really special and therefore call their audiophile-ripping company audioNUT?
It's a well-known fact that cryogenically frozen discs of polycarbonate are apt to make their owners fool themselves into believing they sound better!
Especially if they had to pay to get it done.
The question is: what kind of justification could possibly convince someone that a CD will become "better" after being subjected to ultra-low temperatures?
Are the low temperatures making the aluminum data layer become more accurate to the source? LOL.
Luckily, these folks don't seem to even offer an explanation, they just assume you'll think it's better and charge you $5.00 for the favor.
You hit on a good point. Unfortunately, in the blended sea of valid information, F.U.D., and commisioned salespeople out there, it has come to pass in the minds of many people that
sound quality = the amount of money spent on the audio equipment.
All you have to do to convince many people that Speaker A for $800 sounds twice as good as Speaker B for $400 is to show them the price tags. The same seems to apply to all other types of equipment...amps, cables, CD/DVD players, headphones, connectors, line conditioners, etc. And I bet the same formula applies to video equipment as well.
If I don't find a better job soon in IT-SCM, then I'm going to become a stereo saleman. My specialty will be electron lubricant, ionized conduits, optical disc treatments, and platinum end connectors. My catch line will be
"Because your ears are worth it!"
http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?nu...item=1&mitem=70 (http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PURIST1&variation=&aitem=1&mitem=70)
Compact Disc that "completely conditions all components (speakers, cables and electronics) in the sound system, removing molecular stresses and residual magnetism while "opening" the system to perform to its full potential."
I really love how they have a quote from Stereophile to back up the veracity of their claims about how their test CD will remove "glare and grain in cables".
Stereophile never has had much if any credibility, this just proves why.
http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?nu...item=1&mitem=70 (http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PURIST1&variation=&aitem=1&mitem=70)
Compact Disc that "completely conditions all components (speakers, cables and electronics) in the sound system, removing molecular stresses and residual magnetism while "opening" the system to perform to its full potential."
"As far as new components are concerned, the effect is anything but subtle..." what'd I say? This is the standard "buy this now or suffer the horrors of your current system" tagline in many of these sales pitches. If anything, it should be a red flashing warning sign for snake oil...