Hello,I have some cassettes I would like to digitalise. I would like to do it in an "optimal" way so that I won't want to do it again later.They have been recorded on various recorders which I don't have anymore, and with Dolby deactivated.I have bought an second hand Denon DRM-400 which seems to me like a goo quality/price ratio (couldn't get a 3-head model)I have read somewhere that if you have recorded your tape with dolby B, you should use Dobly B or C to play it back, and if you have used Dolby C, you should only use Dolby C to play it back.Now, what about tapes that were not recorded with Dolby ?Thank you
The rule is that you should play the tapes back with the same Dolby setting as was used for recording, so if these were recorded without Dolby then you want to have that off for playback.
Dolby B was so common that it was default on most players and could not be turned off...
Now, what about tapes that were not recorded with Dolby ?
But you could still use a program like Tape Restore Live to fix lots of other tape issues (such as AZIMUTH problems, temporal volume/highs loss on a single channel, FM stereo hiss removal for recordings from the radio etc.)By the way, if the tapes are recorded with Dolby B on, I've noticed a vast improvement in audio quality by first feeding the audio (without using Dolby B during playback) through Tape Restore Live's restoration filters and using the Dolby B implementation in it over using Dolby B during playback - most problems with the tape are made worse if you play them back using Dolby B, so if you fix them first you get a much better result.On top of that, to my big surprise, the Dolby B chip on my (at the time very expensive) cassette deck caused some weird artifacts for very soft sounds, which don't occur when you use the Tape Restore Live implementation. I actually never noticed this until I made some very soft recordings to compare the audio from Tape Restore Live against that of my cassette deck. I assume that this is not the case with older (analog) versions of Dolby B...
most problems with the tape are made worse if you play them back using Dolby B, so if you fix them first you get a much better result.
Can anyone tell me if this Tape Restorer Dolby "decoder" [which I notice comes with a disclaimer at their site noting it is not the real deal] is truly a variable, sliding band of complimentary* dynamic range expansion? Or is it just a simplistic fixed alteration, perhaps nothing more than a high frequency cut [EQ]?*"complimentary" meaning it is based on, and re-expands, the variable compression applied to the signal during the true Dolby B encoding, not "complimentary" meaning "free". Quotemost problems with the tape are made worse if you play them back using Dolby B, so if you fix them first you get a much better result.Dolby B, the real deal, was so notorious for exacerbating any high frequency loss due to azimuth mis-alignment (and numerous other reasons) that many people actually found leaving it off on playback was overall the better way to go, even if there was more noticeable hiss by not decoding it. You are correct that for it to work right it should be receiving a full bandwidth signal from the get go, so applying corrective measures to the high frequency loss (inevitable in consumer cassette decks) should be applied before Dolby gets decoded.
If you transfer the tapes without Dolby, and then subsequently decide you wish you'd used it, you can apply it using software...http://www.hansvanzutphen.com/tape_restore_live/download/...it works quite well, though isn't identical to a HW dolby circuit. That software includes other useful things for tape transfers too.Cheers,David.
About 'abomination': I was actually VERY surprised with how great my recordings sounded after restoration.