I have the B&W 703s and drive them with a Rotel 1080. I tested a bi-amping setup with a Rotel 1070 for mid-hi and the 1080 for the bass. I could not hear any improvement but i don't listen at high spl. i did not abx this but to me it was not worth the extra money. get a decent amp and you're fine (my opinion)
just adding a standard stereo 150 W power amp?
So that would be better than simply bi-wiring a single amp, but it would probably not be as good as a single amp that was twice as powerful (but if you already have one, it might be cheaper).
Quote from: wgscott on 13 February, 2011, 09:21:44 PMjust adding a standard stereo 150 W power amp?If adding means bi-amping
(1) For decent results, one should use two copies of the same amp, preferably vertically.
I'm not sure what you mean by vertically.
You say your speaker was made for biamping.
Thanks everyone. I think the genral conclusion is that it would be audiophoolish for me to do this with my current system. I appreciate the feedback (and money saved).In the unlikely event I ever do this in the future, it seems a digital approach would probably be superior. I guess that means two DACS, etc, as well, and appropriate software. Some other lifetime...
A few times people have mentioned the benefits of bi/tri-amping as far as load and control, but are there audible benefits?
Is this why a lot of studio speakers are active and have one amp per driver? What's the relationship to that?
Bi-amping refers to driving a passive speaker having 2 x 2 binding post with 2 amps.The passive crossover remains in place.
QuoteA few times people have mentioned the benefits of bi/tri-amping as far as load and control, but are there audible benefits? Well, you can't say one approach is always better... You can build a good sounding passive-crossover system or a good sounding bi/tri-amped sytem. Just as there may be benefits to a 3-way system over a 2-way system, but you can't always say one sounds better. QuoteIs this why a lot of studio speakers are active and have one amp per driver? What's the relationship to that? Marketing might be involved... It might actually be cheaper to build a bi-amped active monitor. Electronic parts are fairly cheap, and if you put two amps on the same circuit board, powered by the same power supply, two small amps might be about the same price as one big amp. And you save the passive-crossover cost. Good quality coils & and large-value (non-electrolytic) capacitors for passive crossovers are relatively expensive. And, you can make a more precise (or more advanced) active crossover than passive crossover. Cost is always a major factor. You want the best sound for a given cost, and/or low cost compared to the selling-price for maximum profit.QuoteBi-amping refers to driving a passive speaker having 2 x 2 binding post with 2 amps.The passive crossover remains in place.Actually, with speakers that are designed only for bi/tri amping, there is no passive crossover. Large-scale P.A. systems usually have only active crossovers, although there might be a "protection" capacitor on the horns.