QUESTION IS: What sort of cartridge and needle would I need to do an alright final rip? The records have been played rather a lot, and some have scratches on them - they've not been that well loved. Cleaned dry on an "oh that looks dusty" basis, rather than regularly. The genre is mostly classical or folk; there's Simon and Garfunkel at the top of the stack of records i'm due to copy, with Fleetwood mac below, giving you some idea of genre.
Some hifi carts are known for a particularly "hi-fi" sound - read: treble-heavy - and depending on your listening setup, that might be a particularly bad thing. But some are known for a warmer sound. YMMV.
4) Find a better way to clean your LP record, I'm using super sonic and special liquid
The more universal problem with DJ carts is that the spherical tips have considerably more distortion at high frequencies than the elliptical/microline/etc stylus profiles more common on higher fidelity carts, and the difference is typically fairly obvious as far as hi-fi concerns go - untrained listeners ought to be able to ABX the difference without any problems. DJ carts may also be designed to be bass-heavy rather than neutral. It's up to personal preference as to whether the distortions are disliked or not, but it is worth noting that the vast majority of pop/rock during the golden ages of vinyl was probably played back on crappy spherical stylii...
And I agree with David, if the CD is available, buy it!
Some people (myself included) like the process or archiving vinyl. I've been doing off and on for 11 years now. My equipment setup changed a little bit last year, but has been pretty stable over those 11 years.Another aspect of transferring vinyl is nostalgia. Albums that I played to death on lp had characteristic clicks and pops that became to me part of the experience of the album.
Quote from: DVDdoug on 18 January, 2010, 02:35:35 PMAnd I agree with David, if the CD is available, buy it!Some people (myself included) like the process or archiving vinyl. I've been doing off and on for 11 years now. My equipment setup changed a little bit last year, but has been pretty stable over those 11 years.Another aspect of transferring vinyl is nostalgia. Albums that I played to death on lp had characteristic clicks and pops that became to me part of the experience of the album. If your Dad really enjoyed the sound of the B&O turntable, it might be worth shelling out the $$$ for a new cartridge, especially if you can get one for $150 per another poster. Another good turntable setup with a good cartridge/needle would liketly cost you significantly more.Rather than use the poor line out of the HiFi, get a phono preamp. You can get something like the ARTcessories USB Phono Plus V2 which is a USB sound card and phono preamp in one. They can be had for a very reasonable price (~$70 last I looked) on Amazon. For my transfers, I use my JVC turntable from back in '88 - mid grade stuff, nothing special. Up until last year, I was using the Stanton cart I bought for it originally with an elliptical needle replaced in '92. Last year I moved to a Grado black cart.What did I learn over the 11 years of transferring vinyl:- Starting with a noise free and clean lp is key.- Be gentle with the pop/click and noise remover; better yet, don't use it at all! I originally batch-processed all of my xfers though the filters with a medium setting. Over the years I've picked up on the various distortions it introduced, espeically on certain instruments. Very annoying once you can pick them out. Now, I don't use the pop/click or noise remover at all. For me, the natural noise of the lp is better than listening to the artifacts introduced by digital processing.- If you do any processing, archive the clean recording. If you find you don't like how it came out later, you can always "remaster it". By having an archive, you avoid having to perform the transfer all over again.- A soundcard with positive gain is key and not very common. Using a common soundblaster, I found that even with max input level set, most records would peak between -10 and -6db. My Yamaha would actually boost the signal to the point that you could drive it too hard. The same is true for my ARTcessories device - it is possible to drive it too hard, so there is plenty of gain. For my taste, I like to get the level as hot as possible before clipping for the best sounding result. I perfer to do this at recording time rather than through post processing.Good luck with your project!
I played one of the records, and noted a fair amount of sibilance in places
Would this be down to the cheap cart? Or would that be something else? I've got the tracking fairly light - if I walk across the room heavily then the record can skip - is that too light?
Otherwise, how does that sound to you all? Any constructive (or vicious) criticism? C'mon, I can take it
3: I'm recording these at 24bit/96kHz, normalising (That's it) and then exporting to WAV@44.1kHz 16bit. Then I'll convert to FLAC for archive. Anyone got any comments on that plan?
As a cheap quick tester, I borrowed a Kam KC-1 headshell, cart and stylus from another friend, who assures me it cost "under a tenner in a nearby record store". I played one of the records, and noted a fair amount of sibilance in places
Had a cursory listen to your uploaded MP3. The very obvious sibilance (which I would call "severe distortion" rather than just sibilance) sounds very much to me like mistracking, which is enemy number 1 in vinyl replay. Not only does mistracking sound horrible, it can also destroy the LP. It's possible that the distortion could be due to physical damage caused by mistracking on previous plays. You can only hope this is not the case.Given that the parts which are not mistracking actually sound pretty good, my guess is that your tracking force is too low. Cartridge manufacturers nearly all give a range of recommended tracking force (eg. "1.5g - 2g"), and a lot of people assume that they should use the lowest possible value (1.5g in the example case), thinking that the less pressure placed on the vinyl the better. Lots of other people go for the middle of the range (1.75g in the example). But in fact, it is almost universally the case that you should set the tracking force to the maximum recommended (2g in my example).
I got best results from Audio Technica 440MLa (~£140). Modern special elliptical stylus gives better results for archiving. Much brighter at the top end. However it is maybe above your price range and tends to 'spit' on less than perfect vinyl.